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Yosemite beyond the supertopo

Original Post
Mike Nerby · · Cool · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 75

Hello!

Just had a stellar weekend in the valley. Got on Mr. Natural and was blown away. What a line!

It got me thinking, what other five star .10 and .11 splitters are out there not in the supertopo guide?

Additionally, where are all the climbs recorded? The only other place that I know of that has a good amount of info that I know about is the Standford website and supposedly the old Don Reid guide.

Any input is appreciated. Thank you!

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

a combination of the don reid guide, mountainproject, and asking questions on the supertopo forum should get you all the beta you need.

By the way, I think that Mr. Natural is not in the supertopo because of rockfall concerns (someone literally died while standing at the base there)

paddyrock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 80

What ever about five star. Seek out the Don Reid no stars. Obsecure bro. That's the way to go.

Peter Valchev · · Truckee, CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 111

Hotline

David Dennis · · High Sierra · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 45

It sounds like there might be a new Yosemite free climbs guide coming to completion within the next year or two.

Dhayan Roark · · Crowley Lake, CA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 10

1 star climbs in the valley would probably be 4-5 stars anywhere else...

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

Windjammer, Wind Chill, Windfall: all amazing climbs with incredible splitters to be had on them.

supertopo.com/tr/Windjammer…

Definitely off the beaten path, and some DFU climbing. If you didn't want to take it all the way to the rim, you could fire Windjammer, then rap and fire Windfall. That'd make for a great day of climbing. Raps may or may not be iffy, though.

vincent L. · · Redwood City · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 560

Try Loggerhead Ledge...a fun climb up to a ledge with amazing views of the valley , bring a picnic

mountainproject.com/v/logge…

Bryan G · · June Lake, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 6,167

Go to this Amazon page for the Reid Guide

amazon.com/Yosemite-Climbs-…

Click on the picture of the cover to "Look Inside" the book. Scroll down a ways until you get to the part of the Index that has the route checklist ordered by difficulty level.

Climbs with 1 star are good, climbs with 2 or 3 stars are fantastic. Look for 5.10's and 5.11's with stars, then look the route up on Mountainproject to find beta for it.

If you really liked Mr Natural and want something very similar (but a full number grade harder), check out Tips

Peter Croft free solo Photo taken by Greg Epperson gregepperson.com/

Af. Finger Lickin' Area and N. Sentinel Creek Area each also have a nice concentration of clean splitters. Watch out for poison oak at Finger Lickin.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,060

Mr. Natural is not in the Supertopo because one day a friend and I were choosing between the Good Book and Mr. Natural, and we chose the Good Book - and while we were on the route, we heard the big rockfall that killed Peter Terbush at the base of Mr. Natural (base of the approach route Apron Jam). Luck of the dice and it would have been us over there.

I made a full topo of the Good Book, and we also returned and replaced the bolts (that is HARD granite even by Yosemite standards). Then the big Good Book rockfall happened, so we did not put the Good Book in the Supertopo. Opinions vary on the current stability of that area!

The Supertopo guide was never intended to be a comprehensive guide, and no one could have predicted that the main Reid guide wouldn't be updated (despite immense amounts of work by Don Reid, the publisher was not interested in updating), let alone go out of print! A new comprehensive guide that will replace the Reid guide is in the works (not by Supertopo), but there are thousands of routes in the Valley, many in excess of 10 pitches, and it's no small task!

Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

It's amazing to me that 90% of Yosemite's climbs are not documented by a book in print. They're essentially obscure climbs. I own several Select guide books with more routes than supertopo.

And, did Chris Mac really need to devote six pages to a single climb?

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

I'm surprised that no one has offered up Clint's page. The xml file he has allows you to find many many climbs by sorting for type of climbing, rating, stars, etc.

web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos…

along with these fantastic "select" climb lists as well

Long, Moderate and Free 21 routes - 10 or more pitches, 5.10 and easier
http://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longmf.htm

Long, Hard and Free 80 routes - 10 or more pitches, 5.11 and harder
http://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm

and finally

new Yosemite climbs by Eric Gabel and friends
http://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/gabel.htm

Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612

These are great. I've climbed in Yosemite for quite a few years and am always looking for obscure, quality routes in the 5.10 range.

I'm headed there in October and am excited to check out Book of Job, Southwest Face of Half Dome, etc.

Keep suggesting those obscure lines!

Dhayan Roark · · Crowley Lake, CA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 10

Yeah, Book of Job looks wild and steep!

Mike Nerby · · Cool · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 75

Windjammer, Wind Chill, Windfall! Nice

Loggerhead Ledge looks like a great spot!

Thank you for the link to the Don Reid guide. Definitely going to purchase!

And the picture of Croft free soloing Tips!!!!! Yeah! What a boss.

Thank you everyone for the responses. This has helped tremendously!

Thank you. Thank you!

Chad Lawver · · Yosemite Village, CA · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 653

I won't claim to have a ton of routes included, but I recently made a mobile app for Yosemite (iPhone only for now). It contains a few great 5.10 lines in the lower falls amphitheater, not in super topo. I plan to add more routes every month. Unlike a book, it can be modified time and time again without a new print. If anyone wants to check it out for free, use one of the promo codes below . . .

A4NJJ4JWYELH
FXWYFP93XAAK
F76J94NMHLYY
F6EL9MTT3N7J
JP4WR3E9XJNK
4NR46L6FTX9F
JJ9KEHR3M9WH
ARH7NHTJ7R3K
P7W3NHMXKRRX
9HPFPHJJTTNJ

Go to the App store > Featured Tab > Redeem button (bottom of page) and type in one of the above codes. Please respond with the code you used, as they are only good for 1 use.

Also, if you use a code, I would really appreciate some feedback (good or bad!). I haven't gotten many downloads and would really like to see people start using it around here. Let me know if you think it is too cheap, too expensive, needs more routes (currently has >200), etc.

Thanks to anyone who checks it out! If we run out of codes, I can pass off some more.

Chad Lawver · · Yosemite Village, CA · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 653

Here's the iTunes link . . .
itunes.apple.com/us/app/yos…

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

Used 9HPFPHJJTTNJ

Can't wait to give it a test drive. I'm in Yosemite every weekend.

S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

I used P7W3NHMXKRRX

Thanks!

Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612

Used ARH7NHTJ7R3K, THanks!!!!

Give the man's app some positive reviews, folks!

Chad Lawver · · Yosemite Village, CA · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 653

Thanks for downloading! Much appreciated. I hope to upload all the El Cap Base Routes next weekend, as well as a couple more climbs in the lower falls amp. Looking forward to your input.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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