One of the weird holes in which tricams really do work best.

All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 7. The Slabs > Standard Route (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R)

One of the weird holes in which tricams really do work best.

ID 106183068 ·

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Simul climbing the slabs with the wife...

Following the crux

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4.3 from 15 votes

Denis O'Connor

Jun 13, 2008

“One of the weird holes in which tricams really do work best.”

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Nearby Photos

Overview of Standard Route done with the 'Quartz Pocket' and 'Direct Finish' variations

Into the unknown

Rainbow and foliage!

Simul climbing the slabs with the wife...

One of the weird holes in which tricams really do work best.

Following the crux

Me in the toilet bowl. Photo by Loran Smith

Wife glaring at me on the final pitch before the dike.

Looking back at a team at the toilet bowl (Oct. 9, 2019)

At the LONELY BOLT atop the 2ed to last Pitch (The Left Dike) The last Snow's of the year still viable in Huntington's

We chose to belay just after the traverse from gear... Here Dave is leading up from our belay to the right facing corner that could be considered a second crux (one of the best sections of the climb though)...

Dave Trumper starting the crux traverse photo taken from Lunch Ledge...<br>
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note: he has just clipped bolt 1 and bolt 2 is just above the sloping ledge less than 10 feet to his right...

View of the right side sitting on lunch ledge

last few feet before lunch ledge

looking up from the lunch ledge

be prepared to run it out on easy slab

Threaded Tunnel 1/2 way up P3 above the Toilet Bowl on the Quartz Pocket Variation (20+/-' to the Belay), The real first piece of protection after leaving the toilet bowl anchors, 50' +/- below. A cam goes in just as good, but this is cool!

Me on lunch rock with the real beauty behind me!

Dave Trumper leading up from the Quartz Pocket on pitch 3... bring tricams for this pitch if you like protection...

dave at the top of the arch (looking up from the thread belay) just before getting to lunch ledge...

Hanging at the belay

Sewing up the Arch on the original P3 (and my preferred method)

Solo to the launch pad

Quartz Pocket Belay View of the VALLEY

Midway on Pitch 2

The arch. Photo by Loran Smith

"POS" bolt on P3 30 +/- feet above the Toilet Bowl on the Quartz Pocket Variation (You pass an old stud just before it): first good pro. 50' up at the flake.

Bernardo belaying at the two bolts at the very bottom of the arch on standard route. Ryan traversing to the belay after climbing up from "The Toilet Bowl" in the background.

The 2nd bolt on the traverse from Lunch Ledge.

ben on the crux pitch

Running it out up the dike on the final pitch.

standard

Looking down the arch on Standard Route from "the mailbox". If you've got a 60m and you're coming up the arch and not the quartz pocket variation, do a semi-hanging belay here, you won't reach the thread-belay. 70m rope might make it.

Mariann having fun on STD Route

Climbers on the crux pitch (5.7 Direct).

Endless slab as seen from the Launch Pad

Beautiful view!

Rapping standard route on my first day climbing outside. Summer 2000.

Quartz Pocket to Pinch Belay (tricams and #3 or #3.5 BD Camelot) still got a good 20' runout right off the anchor.

Bernardo heading from the thread-belay to the lunch ledge.

Climbing direct from the launch pad to the base of the arch. TCU's in pocket at midpoint. 190 feet.

Leading P7 of Standard Route

Protection on pitch 4

Panorama from lunch rocks! Beauty!

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