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Walk up access to anchors for Top Roping

Original Post
Beau Bot · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 2

I live in Portland Oregon and want to travel only within a few hours...

So me and my girlfriend wanted to go out top roping but we won't have a lead climber with us.
We are confident that we can set up a bolted anchor or even a tree anchor but we need a place or route(s) that allow easy walk up to do this.

We also would rather not have to rapell down or top belay.

So basically a crag with easy access to the top and bottom...

Any suggestions.

NHornick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

You could do this at Broughton, if you head left at the top of the trail to the left end of Hanging Gardens; the stuff over there is like 5.7-5.9; alternatively you can TR some short routes around classic crack by heading right (I think you can get on a .10 or two over there?). Horsethief butte, which is out past the Dalles on the WA side of the Columbia has numerous walk-up TR options, generally in lower difficulties (5.6-5.10). You can TR something like six climbs on Rope de Dope block at Smith by doing a short scramble. Off the top of my head, those are your best options, but maybe someone else has better ideas?

Beau Bot · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 2

oh cool, thank you so much!
A friend recommended Broughton and it sounds really promising.

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

Rocky Butte has those options as well, though more limited if you don't want to rap down. Most of the routes at Rocky Butte have top access.

Beau Bot · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 2

Yeah I had heard about Rocky Butte.

Are there chains to set up an anchor or is it natural anchors?
That sounds promising as I live only 3 miles from there.

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

There are a few chains, but I'd recommend slinging trees.

Dan G. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 5

If you want quick climbing, Rocky Butte is pretty great. Top-rope setup isn't too bad on some parts of the wall, with walk-down to bottom (rap not needed) -- other sections may require rapping, though (not sure). Glass, litter, junk is common, though.

Broughton is beautiful, and you can swim in the river afterwards! I seem to recall being more frustrated, since it is often crowded and the number of top-rope routes is fewer. Still, there's some good stuff to the left as you hit the rock that is fairly easy to hang a rope from.

There's a good little guidebook for the area. If you can't find it, PM me, and I'll dig up the name.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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