"Re-Bolting" Castlewood SP

Anyone know of the current bolting situation in the park? Is replacing old anchors possible if so what steps are required? any info is greatly appreciated. Chris.

I believe you mean re-bolting, not retro-bolting.

It's rebolting...and some retro bolting too! Anyway, the TR station above the licorice Stick has to be re bolted first. It was probably set up by boy scouts or something. Since the quality of rock is super shitty and TR access is super easy may I suggest on focusing on fixing the anchors properly first, with long chains and proper alighnment. If you intend to bolt lines, make sure there is no crack systems (like the licorice stick). That is a very nice trad lead. The left side of the canyon ( opposite of grocery store wall), something needs to be done with those snakes! For real. Bring like a bunch of Honey Badgers and let them loose there or something!

For a while, any form of bolting was illegal in Castlewood. Even like for like replacing. That's why the bolt situation is so shitty there. I went on their website to check this and couldn't find it so I guess they've dialed back. Here's what I found:

CLIMBING HARDWARE
h. It shall be unlawful to place fixed or permanent rock climbing hardware, unless the climber first obtains a Special-Activities Permit from the park manager. Removal of previously placed fixed or permanent climbing hardware is prohibited.

Thanks for all the info, and quick reply! Any additional info out there?
I am interested in moving one anchor (aged and unsafe) which is also in the wrong location. Having spoken with the guy who equipped the route many years ago (early 90's?), this is most probably due to the route being bolted from the top down ( during a blizzard ). He had expected the route to end in a different location than it actually does. Not only are the aged bolts dangerous, they are difficult to use and create a rather unpleasant experience during cleaning.

P.S. all the lead bolts on this line are still in fine shape, and in my opinion do not need to be replaced. Also if the route was not so severely overhanging the anchors would not be such a big deal, but the large swings during cleaning are discomforting at best.

Personally I have no interest in the grocery store.

Contact Mike or Tom. Those are they Castlewood guys, odds are they put the route up originally any way.

I don't think current park management is very bolt friendly. New hardware is forbidden. Not sure how well they respond to requests for anchor replacement.

A number of routes were rebolted a few years back with full permission of the Park Manager who was very cooperative. She has moved on to Staunton, but it would be best to contact the current Park Manager and go from there. They have a special use permit process, government paperwork of course, that you have to fill out & sign. The good news is that if you do 40 hours of this volunteer work in a year you get a free parks pass. I would recommend stainless for Castlewood, especially in any black streaks as the drainage nature of that particular environment makes it more moist than most of Colorado. Thanks for being willing to help out.

Free parks pass? For something I wouldn't mind doing any way? I might just have to contact them too, then!