The Beanstalk Crack
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 44 votes
Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | Amy Colburn, Mark Sprague - July 21/2014 |
Page Views: | 4,665 total · 40/month |
Shared By: | M Sprague on Jul 21, 2014 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
A 75 foot fingers to hands crack running straight up the wall. - Start just to the left, off a nice flat starting stone and head up to a single bolt. Layback up until you can get a nice flat edge right of the crack and begin plugging gear. The crack gradually widens to great hand jamming, ending at a good horizontal jug for clipping the anchor. Worth some stars in my book.
Location
Protection
med nuts (a few off-sets are nice), a set of cams to #3, doubles of the .75 to 2. If you have off-set cams in those sizes bring them along for the short flared section, but they are not critical. Double fat glue-in eyebolt anchor with ramshorns. (Lift the ramshorns up and clip draws directly into the bolts if people are going to be TRing) Tape highly recommended for the back of your hands if you want to keep them pretty, though, last check, traffic seems to have smoothed the grittiness out a lot.
6 Comments