Advice For One Day Of Climbing Around Sedona
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Hopefully some kind soul can point me in the right direction... |
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Queen Victoria Spire is a classic, entry-level spire in the Sedona area. |
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Scenic Cruise is one of the most tame of all the routes I have done in Sedona...you might want to take a second look at it... |
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Dow, your summitpost page is very helpful, thank you! Am I correct in understanding that you recommend no gear below a .5, and likely no nuts? |
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Dr. Rubo's wild ride is a fun 5.9 with a short approach with a very secure crux pitch being a 5.9 hand crack and a bolt protected 1 move wonder mantle move. Can rap with a single rope |
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Single set of C4's: #.3 to #4. Doubles from #.5 to #2. I led all the pitches and placed no passive pro. My wife was my second, she had a good time which means it was a mild route (no exposed traverses or jumps). |
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As a regular Gunks climber who honeymooned in Sedona...One bit of advice: |
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Thank you everybody. Really helpful advice. |
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Mars Attacks is another great option. The hardest climbing is 5.9 slab climbing protected by closely spaced bolts. The gear protected climbing isn't any harder than 5.6. Just don't fall off the 2nd pitch traverse or you'll be hanging in space! (bring prussiks and you're good) |
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If you haven't climbed on sandstone before and 5.9 is your comfort lead zone, you might want to think about Queen Victoria. |
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Eric, I second Paul's advice: bring the passive gear. Not all of the routes are as easy to sew up with cams as Dr. Rubos. |
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Thanks for the advice. I am a conservative trad climber (especially in new areas) - even though I asked for recommendations, there is no way I would head up without any passive pro. I am just trying to see how many perspectives I can gather. |
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I'm kind of curious...lots of people have done it, so I have to ask. |
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I'd say that the 3rd pitch is 5.6. |
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Hey Eric , hope you have a great time in Sedona . I like scenic cruise and rubos both pro well, the approach for scenic cruise can be a bit tricky and long, yet well worth the effort . mars attacks is fun as well but take ratings from people on here with a grain of salt. The third pitch is a solid 5.8 but protects well and is great fun. |
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Hey Eric; take it down a notch or two for your first lead climb in Sedona! Place gear every body length; and hope that does it! Forget Dr Rubos and the Mace! For those climbs you should be a solid .10 leader with experience with sandstone. Have seen trad climbers competent in crack hang an struggle on those. You want an enjoyable time; not some sandbagged opinion from someone feeding their ego! |
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Agree with everything Lou said, except his opinion about Mars Attacks. YMMV, but I think that the placement of the first bolt (well into ankle busting territory) makes the first pitch just as serious, if not more so, than Dr Rubios. Then again, it has been a few years since I did that climb, and I tend to be a puss when it comes to slab. The rest of Mars Attacks is an absolute blast! |
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Paul Zander wrote:Sorry, didn't mean to sandbag anyone with the 5.6 rating on P3 of Mars Attacks. Just my personal opinion, obviously some agree and some don't, such is the nature of ratings. I agree Queen Vic is the perfect 1st choice, especially since it gets you on a spectacular summit. But would others agree Mars Attacks is a nice intermediate step between Queen Vic and Rubos/Scenic Cruise for someone who is new to Sedona?The issue is not difficulty of the moves, Mars Attack is one of the few routes I have soloed in Sedona (am always confused when folks talk about the difficulty they have on the first pitch) and it has to be considered one of the easier routes in Sedona no doubt...but it is the exposure on the traverse...poster mentioned bringing along a 2nd who is not all that experienced or at least not a leader. My wife loved Scenic...she would not be thrilled with Mars because of the exposure on the traverse. Everyone is different, but she is my gauge for such things..when you climb a lot....it is hard to tell where the average comfort level sits....but exposed traverses will freak clients out more than 5.10 vertical based on my experience. We were working on a stellar new 5.10+/5.11- route in Black Velvet Canyon this weekend....incredible steep pitches....only bolt we did not argue about much(mostly all crack) was protecting a 5.7 traverse where there were consequences. I do consider its brethren route, Big Corner , to have one of the finer single trad pitches in Sedona....Mars is worth consideration no question... |