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2014 AAC International Climbers Meet

Robin Knupp · · Rodeo · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0

Checking in again. We have been practicing trading off gear, etc. We will probably start off conservatively with fewer pitches and shorter approaches. After all, we didn't start climbing until our late 40s. I can't believe we are doing this!! The weather here this summer has not been conducive to getting out, so we have started going to the bouldering gym and I'm in CrossFit bootcamp. Any advice to we Southeastern craggers would be appreciated. What kind of shoes are best to carry for walking off, or will we mostly be rapping down?

So far, I think we are the only ones flying from Atlanta to Sacramento on the 4th?

Robin and David Knupp
Asheville, NC

Ulf Renman · · Frösön, Jämtlands Län, Swed… · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5

I'm psyched for the meet and are trying to sort out my gearlist. Some of the practical details that I'm wondering about are:

  • Do I need some sort of permit/voucher to enter the park (since you should normally pay when you enter and that should be included in the fee for the meet)?
  • My plan is to stay in the Vally until Friday after the meet. How does that affect the fee for the park?
  • Could I stay at the same campsite after the meet until I leave?
  • What is the best way to solve the food and water question after the meet? Should I buy dry food before going there or is it possible (to reasonable price) to buy in the Vally? Is water free or do I pay for that as well?
  • At the campsite (or somewhere else):
  • * Is it possible to charge a phone?
  • * Is there wifi that could be used?

Lots of small questions...

But I'm really looking forward to the climbing!

/Ulf
Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Ulf,

Here is a few answers to questions you have.

  • The permit papers to access the park for free will be sent in a email later in September.
  • I don't have an answer to this one. I would imagine that after the event, if you are in the valley,
and don't leave you should be ok…?
Before may be an issue, and you would need to purchase a daily pass for those few days.

  • No, you may not stay at the same camp after the event. These sites are for special events only.
  • You can buy food, and find free drinking water in the valley. The valley does offer some small grocery
stores with everything you would find in a small local store. (Fresh produce, prepared foods, beer, etc.
The prices are a bit more then a local city outside of the valley, but they are not bad either…

  • No WiFi at the camp. Some valley businesses have WiFi, but I forget which ones.
We do get cell service at the camp, and throughout the valley for the most part. Some dead spots…
You can charge the phone/tablet at a business (cafe), solar charger (hang on tent) or in car (12v).

Hope this helps out. Let me know if you all have any other questions, thoughts, or concerns!

Thanks much!
Cory
Wendy Ong · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Ulf:

- There is Wifi at Curry Village (across from the Pizza Deck).

- If you do get a temporary mobile phone for your stay, I would recommend AT&T or Verizon for service in the Valley. I know, from personal experience, that T-Mobile (and other carrier) service is non-existent.

- A one-time entrance fee into the park ($20) gives you 7 days access. There is the option of buying a Yosemite or National Parks annual pass if you think you'll be back:

nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/…

It might sound like a lot of logistics, but Yosemite is super easy to get around and one of the most tourist-friendly places around :)

Best,
Wendy

Anunta Anunta · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 284

Hi all,

Looks like I'll be flying in on Sunday Oct 5th and leaving Oct 12th. Does anyone know if we'll be able to set up camp on Sunday and also stay the evening of Oct 11th (Sat night)? Or will we have to find another campsite for Oct 11th?

Just for fun, I'll be carrying a full rack and a 9.8mm 70m and a 9.2mm 60m. I lead about 5.10- and follow 5.11-12a, but I'm happy to do anything. I'd love to get on some long multipitch routes like Royal arches, Serenity crack/sons of yesterday, Northeast buttress of Higher cathedral, and for a stretch goal if someone doesn't mind getting scared with me, Steck Salathe. But honestly, I'm happy just getting out to climb with some awesome people who have a great attitude!

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
Anfarwal wrote: Looks like I'll be flying in on Sunday Oct 5th and leaving Oct 12th. Does anyone know if we'll be able to set up camp on Sunday and also stay the evening of Oct 11th (Sat night)? Or will we have to find another campsite for Oct 11th?
The listing specifies "Seven nights and six days camping at secluded Yellow Pines camp ground " which strongly suggest Sunday arrival & night through the following Sunday departure.

I also seem to recall mention somewhere, but I couldn't find it, that Sunday night at the start, and Saturday night at the end are included -- but that no meals will be done for those days. The catering is 6 days (Mon-Sat).
Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

That is correct David Gibbs! Thanks for all the help people! :D Getting excited!!

adam24 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

Hi Cory,

Thanks for the info, I was wondering about guide books. I think I will pick up a copy of yosemite free climbs. Are there any good (classic) routes you would recommend to get used to the style. Perhaps around 5.9 difficulty and between 5-8 pitches long?

Best,
Adam

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Adam,

Yep, get the Yosemite Free Climbs (SuperTopo)

Another good, and more inclusive/extensive book would be the Don Reid Free Climbs Yosemite.

So many routes in the valley… Most of everyone is only on 10% of all the routes in there!
That being said, if it is not a four star, or three star don't be fooled. It could be just as awesome as
the four star routes nearby.

One route that does come to mind is the Central Pillar of Frenzy. 5.9, 5pitches, short approach.
It could be crowded, or empty… But it is sustained, and awesome climbing and exposure/position.

A few others: Nutcracker 5.8, 600' Snake Dike 5.7, the hike is longer then the climb!
Higher Cathedral Spire - Regular Route 5.9 300' Higher Cathedral Rock - N.E. Butt 5.9 900'

That should get you started with some things to look at! Also don't forget to look here on MountainProject at the Yosemite area. You can do searches within some parameters for specifics…

Cheers!
Cory

Louis Louw · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Getting excited for the trip!
I'm planning to rent a car and anybody needing a lift is welcome to join me.

My flight has been booked and I arrive on 4 Oct at SFO.
The plan is to stay overnight and buy supplies/gear Sunday morning and head out to the valey later that day.

My return flight is the evening of 12 Oct, so will head back to SFO earlier that day.

Jonathon B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 61
Louis Louw wrote:Getting excited for the trip! I'm planning to rent a car and anybody needing a lift is welcome to join me. My flight has been booked and I arrive on 4 Oct at SFO. The plan is to stay overnight and buy supplies/gear Sunday morning and head out to the valey later that day. My return flight is the evening of 12 Oct, so will head back to SFO earlier that day.
Hey I could probably pitch in for gas/rental on the ride out on the 12th, that's the day i plan on heading back to SFO. I will get my flights booked here soon and can provide more details later
Eric Schafer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

Greetings fellow ICM participants!

This is my first year at the ICM (had to back out last year with a tendon injury) and I'm looking forward to being humbled by easy routes in the valley. Most of my climbing is done in Red River Gorge, so granite and crack climbing are foreign to me.

I don't have any trad lead experience, but I'm hoping this will be a good opportunity to learn.

Snake Dike is my #1 interest, but I'm up for pretty much anything.

I'm looking forward to meeting you guys.

Aaron McDonald · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 15

Little Yosemite Valley was on fire Sunday. Looks like several hikers were rescued from the top of Half Dome.





Weather was perfect this last weekend!

Middle Cathedral East Buttress -- Crowed 50 variation



Central Pillar of Frenzy -- pulling the roof



Can't wait to meet and climb with everyone! Hope you are getting excited!
Ulf Renman · · Frösön, Jämtlands Län, Swed… · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5

Yep, defiantly getting excited :-)

So, I will stay in the Vally after the meet until Friday 17th. My goal is of course to be climbing during this time as well, but we'll see what my body says. Maybe there will be hiking or just slacking instead.

Are there anyone else staying after the meet that is up for something? I would really like to do some easy aiding if there is anyone there to keep me company. I
will probably bring a basic aiding kit (aiders, daisys, jumars, grigri, ...). So bring your portaledge and show me some cool stuff ;-)

See you soon!

Tim Jones 1 · · Tenbury Wells, Worcestershire, · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Hi all

Really looking forward to the meet. It's my second year but we missed out on Yosemite last year.

Two of us are flying into LA to spend the week prior to the meet climbing and I will be stopping on after the meet on my own until the 18th or thereabouts and looking for partners to climb with.

Cheers

Tim

Aaron McDonald · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 15
Tim Jones 1 wrote:Hi all Really looking forward to the meet. It's my second year...
Tim Jones! How the heck are you? The last time I saw you it was the middle of the night.
Aaron McDonald · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 15

Decent from the Kat Walk off of Middle Cathedral.



Tim Jones 1 · · Tenbury Wells, Worcestershire, · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0
Aaron McDonald wrote: Tim Jones! How the heck are you? The last time I saw you it was the middle of the night.
I'm great thanks. Are you going this year as well? It looks like there will be plenty of familiar faces attending again ;)
Aaron McDonald · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 15

Tim,

Yes I will be there! Maybe make a trip to SoYo to get some adventure climbing in!

Tim Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0
Aaron McDonald wrote:Tim, Yes I will be there! Maybe make a trip to SoYo to get some adventure climbing in!
Adventure climbing sounds good ;) Where is SoYo?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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