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Routes in 4. Moby Grape Area
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Dark Hallow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A4+ R |
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Manhedral T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Moby Grape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Moonshadow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peppy's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Reppys Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tip Trip (formerly 11a) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Union Jack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R |
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White Iceberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | John Strand, later climbed with additional bolts by Tom Coe, Paul Horak, Rusty Reno (July 1989) |
| Page Views: | 7,904 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Rusty Reno on Feb 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: You may come across small, silver sensors that are part of a research project on weathering on Cannon. Please do not disturb them. Thanks ! More details can be found at mountainproject.com/forum/t…
Details
Description
This route has three distinct cruxes. The first twenty feet involve sustained 5.11 micro-edging (see picture) with good protection. After moving left to the third bolt, the route goes up a shallow groove with a difficult mantle to clip the next bolt. (I took a 40 foot fall on this move on the first ascent!) A short traverse right brings the leader to the crux -- a sequence of pure friction moves that seem impossible. (Full disclosure: Paul, Tom, and I gave the crux about 100 tries before Tom finally succeeded.)
This is a genuine test piece -- old school 5.12 thin face with bolts put in on the lead. My old buddies in North Conway have told me that the young Turks who are tearing up the 5.14 sport routes think it is impossible, and they don't believe that this route was ever led. Rest assured gym rats, it was.
admin edit -Apperently there was a previous FA. According to John Strand he climbed this previously with 2 bolts, belayed by Nick Santigrist, and called it 'Yuppies', but he said no one believed him because of the difficulty and he hadn't claimed an FA because he wanted to eliminate the crack finish.
This is a genuine test piece -- old school 5.12 thin face with bolts put in on the lead. My old buddies in North Conway have told me that the young Turks who are tearing up the 5.14 sport routes think it is impossible, and they don't believe that this route was ever led. Rest assured gym rats, it was.
admin edit -Apperently there was a previous FA. According to John Strand he climbed this previously with 2 bolts, belayed by Nick Santigrist, and called it 'Yuppies', but he said no one believed him because of the difficulty and he hadn't claimed an FA because he wanted to eliminate the crack finish.
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