Interesting Ice Screw Design from Salewa

I haven't seen these in the United States.

Looks like an interesting design.

http://www.sport-outdoor.sk/en/climbing-gear/skrutka-salewa-ufo-2

This one is also quite different:

youtube.com/watch?v=to85cuM…

Interesting. That top piece looks like plastic. I wonder how that would hold up.

I bet it is plastic around an anodize aluminum or steel flip handle. Actually an interesting idea because one can grab the plastic bit to start the screw hole. Then once the screw is started, flip the handle, and finish.

They're not available for sale in the US. Looks like you have try REALLY hard if you want to buy one.. see email chain below from Salewa US support:

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Not, sure. We don’t sell direct to consumers either in North America or Europe. So I am not sure who in Europe I selling them. Perhaps try Google UK?

Best,
M

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Subject: Re: Quick screw

ok, is there an online site in the UK where I can buy it?

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On Tue, Oct 7, 2014 at 3:24 PM, SV_US - Service wrote:
Hi,

In North America we only carry Salewa footwear and packs, that’s why I was a bit confused.

We only carry that screw for purchase in Europe!

Thanks!
M

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Subject: Re: Quick screw

For your new ice climbing screw called the Quick Screw. 13cm version

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On Tuesday, October 7, 2014, SV_US - Service wrote:
Hi,

Can you clarify for which product?

Best,
M

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To: SV_US - Service
Subject: Quick screw

Hi, I live in NY. Where can I buy the Quick Screw. Thanks.

These look interesting. Looks like they tried to take all the best parts of other screws.

Round red handle looks nice to initiate the screw. Flip handle looks like Petzls. Have the sling already sewn like grivels speed screw. They look like they rack well like BD screws.

IceMan, I wouldn't worry about it. Those look absolutely terrible. They remind me of the hugely overpriced and completely useless CAMP Radion ice screws. The dogbone on it, in actual use, is all but pointless and absolutely gets in the way. They are also very annoying to try to rack and manipulate while wearing gloves. There is a good reason why almost every serious ice climber has a rack of BD Express screws. The newest Petzl screws look really nice as well.

Look's like more weight, and more material to get caught on surface irregularities in the last final turns getting the head as deep in as possible. This is even apparent in the video, see for yourself. They're also not clearly showing the ergonomics of deploying it from your harness and funking with the thing-a-ma-jig..... Can I ask what's wrong with express?

The express's rocker hanger and only metal parts means two things, one it can better roll over surface irregularities in the final turns, and two you can bash the @#$%^ out of it to finish up. (with palm or hammer, do that with former mentioned product....) The only downside I see to express are said stories of the bd hangers able to cut ropes, which is a fluke that I don't know the statistics or anecdotes about.

I actually like the Camp Radion screws. They are my go-to panic piece, as they seem to start in hard ice a bit faster than others I've used.
I also prefer Grivel screws over Express, but I'm not by any stretch of the imagination a "serious" ice climber, so I guess that's ok.

I ordered a couple of these new Salewa screws from Europe. Should have them in a month. Will be interesting to see if they work well or not.

ClimbingOn wrote:IceMan, I wouldn't worry about it. Those look absolutely terrible. They remind me of the hugely overpriced and completely useless CAMP Radion ice screws. The dogbone on it, in actual use, is all but pointless and absolutely gets in the way. They are also very annoying to try to rack and manipulate while wearing gloves. There is a good reason why almost every serious ice climber has a rack of BD Express screws. The newest Petzl screws look really nice as well.

Bump! Kai or anyone else use these or plan to this season?

Some interesting links out there....

I'm definitely intrigued by the design but at 80 Euros, that's a tough sell. Also, some reviews point to the fact that getting used to placing them is awkward.

Side by Side Comparison of most screws currently on the market

Head to Head Comparison - Salewa Quick Screw VS Petzl Laser Sonic

For Sale Site #1 - UK - 75-85 EUROS + shipping

For Sale Site #2 - Salewa Europe - 95 EUROS!!!

I've read some of those links you posted, thank you!

Anyone have any first hand experience placing these? They look like a total game changer or a total waste of money.

Backcountry.com

Find them in the states too

Jesus....$110 for a single screw? That's crazy.

The new Petzl screws are the best and fastest screws out there. Nothing else I've used comes close. And that includes owning a full rack of the latest BD express and at least 2 sizes each of Grivel Helix, Grivel 360, and Camp Radion.

Alright, I've used these screws and I feel obliged to share my experience. I even thought about writing up a longer review at some point or starting yet another gear blog, but never got around to it. Anyways...

First off, I only borrowed these screws from a friend last season, so I can't comment on durability. However, I've used almost all the screws on the market fairly extensively, so I can compare to those.

The normal ice screw parts:
The teeth, shaft, and threads are on par with any of the top players (BD, Petzl, Grivel). I was going to write more, but I don't think it adds anything to this mini-review.

Ergonomics:
Here's the interesting part... I think the ergonomics on this screw are better than any other I've used. I think the poor reviews it gets are just from people expecting to use it like any other ice screw. Let me explain why.

1. Getting it off the harness
It's clipped to your harness just like a cam. Easy to unclip and you don't need to sort through your ice clippers to get the right size or reach way to a back clipper when you've run out on the front. I thought they complemented a rack of regular screws on clippers nicely since I could rack more screws towards the front of my harness and use only the 2 most forward ice clipper spots.

2. Getting it to the ice
Here's where people get confused (and the link above gets it wrong). Disclaimer: I was actually interested in these before I borrowed them and found a video of the designer demo'ing this method at a trade show; I didn't make it up.
After you've unclipped it, your left with the carabiner end in your hand and need to get it to the other end with the handle. Just push the handle into your thigh and let your hand slide down the screw. Dead simple and easy to do. Now, just start the screw like normal. That little cover is designed to pop off when you press it into the ice (maybe at a slight angle). It worked quite well for me and I didn't have to think about it at all.

3. Starting it
I think the screw really shines here. So after you've done the 2 step process above, you need to start the screw. The huge plastic knob is *much* easier to grab and turn than pressing against the sharp edges on a traditional hanger. Also, the round shape has makes it much easier to reposition your hand for the second turn. I don't know about you guys, but when I place any other screw, I twist my wrist as far counterclockwise as it goes, then push the screw in and turn as far clockwise as I can, and that still usually isn't enough thread bite to switch over to the fold-out crank. So I have to do some finger gymnastics around the screw hanger to reset my hand while trying not to knock out my marginal screw. With the round thing, you don't even have to take your hand off. You can keep applying inward pressure with your palm while you rotate your wrist back to its starting position.

Other good stuff:
The plastic bit noticeably reduces melt out
The screw cleans easily (unlike those aluminum petzls)
Having the cover integrated eliminates the capping/uncapping screws before and after a climb, my least favorite part of the day.
Cover would be great for mountaineering and alpine, where it'd be nice to have a screw handy, but don't want to have an uncapped screw tearing holes in your clothes and getting scratched on the rock.

Some not so good stuff:
I'm not a fan of the integrated draw (I hate it on the Radion), but it works ok. Definitely my least favorite part, but I'm willing to live with it.
The plastic cover rests against the ice when the screw is placed. It' pretty flexible, but it might break if you hung/fell on the screw with it in the wrong position. The plastic handle, on the other hand, seems sturdy.
The price. It's pretty rough.

The bottom line: Neither game changing nor a waste of money. If they weren't so damn expensive and hard to find, I'd probably have a few on the rack already. As it is, I'm keeping an eye out for deals. Let me know if you find any :)

Just about the only improvement I think could be made would be to add a ratcheting mechanism (maybe I should patent that?) Unless someone can figure out a way to ditch the integrated draw but keep the awesome handle.

Cheers,
Dan

Interesting. Thx Dan.

"The plastic bit noticeably reduces melt out".

Care to explain why?

zoso wrote:Interesting. Thx Dan. "The plastic bit noticeably reduces melt out". Care to explain why?

I'm guessing it's because plastic doesn't conduct heat well. With a normal screw the hanger gets hot in the sun, and that heat is conducted into the screw which melts it out. In this case, the outer surface of the plastic gets hot in the sun, but that heat doesn't travel through the plastic into the screw itself, therefor, no melt out.

Hey Dan, those screws are 20% off

backcountry.com/salewa-quic…

These look really innovative. Aside from the points above,it looks like:

1- integrated draw cuts down on weight of one biner, but to run a longer sling wouldn't save you any trouble or weight. Still perfect for placements where you dont need longer runners. The cost increase is buffered bu the integrated sling and biner.

2- saves the time of getting the draw off and clipping it.

3- the holder on the draw protects the screw. Think this was already discussed. Follow the backcountry link and zoom in.

Interested in more feedback from those who have used it.

Ouch, gotta own a small fortune for those things. Otherwise though, they look great. As mentioned, more for straight ahead ice climbs as trying to use longer draws would be clunky. It would be nice to have 2 or 3 on the rack though. But at 100 each... dang.

Maybe I didn't read all the comments carefully, but.....

Nobody mentioned the reduced leveraging affect of this design? I mean it basically has an integrated sling tie-off built-in. You don't have to clear an area around the screw to butt the crank as close to the ice as possible. I don't bother w/ ice climbing anymore, but this is the most innovative screw design since the current shaft/thread profile shared by all screws on the market.