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Flying Pig aka Witblitz Direct/Sorcerer-Witblitz-Altar-Kingpin
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Granite Mountain Link-Ups
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Altar of the Sun T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cat's PJ's-Said and Done-Reunion-Beaver Cleaver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying Pig aka Witblitz Direct/Sorcerer-Witblitz-Altar-Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Soul-Man Traverse aka Hot Line-Camptown Races-Slammerjam-Kingpin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,881 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jed Alan on Dec 6, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
Granite Mountain is closed between February 1st and July 15th for peregrine falcon nesting!
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
This is an amazing line and makes use of the tallest part of the wall and some of it's horizontals. It connects the lowest point on the wall at the Sundeck Boulder, to the highest point on the wall...the top of King Pin
P1) Climb the "Witblitz Direct" pitch off the Sundeck Boulder. Cramer's guide calls it 10a.
P2) Here you could go up the off-width chimney of Crisco way(5.8), the beautiful second pitch of Green Savior, which could be soloed or simul climbed by a strong party (5.5), or the variation to the right of that(which is 5.8). Use one of these three options to gain the "Comfort Ledge" at the base of the big pitch on Witblitz
P3) Climb the main pitch of Witblitz. There are three options. One is 5.10 dangerous runout, straight up variation. Two is to start straight up, then head right onto a face before the runout, and do a 5.7/.8 runout to a crack out right which joins back into the corner up higher. The third option is start at a super exposed spot out right on the comfort ledge and pull an intense move into the bottom of the crack that eventually leads back into the corner...
...whichever way you choose, belay at the ledge above the beargrass.
P4) Climb up and traverse right around a corner on a short traverse that takes you to the base of "The Bottomless Corner". (5.10) this is a section of the Alter of the Sun linkup
P5) Climb the "Bottomless Corner" to its top and then traverse right across a wild airy traverse that is fairly well protected to a two hanger rappel station (5.10).
P6) Climb straight up, clip a piton, then move right to a juggy face section that is a variation on Kingpin's face pitch. If you manage for rope drag you can have a nice cruisy climb all the way up through the upper blocky section of this pitch and on into the splitter 5.8 corner of Kingpin's final pitch. If you want to top out, take it all the way to the top, or belay at the first huge ledge in this dihedral and be set up for the Cinnamon Girl topout.
P7) And for one last, wild, gratuitous pitch. traverse out left into the Cinnamon Girl pitch. There are two variations. Take the handrail to the first vertical crack and climb that (5.11), or go farther out the handrail to the second vertical crack and top out on that (5.10). Either way, make sure you look down.
P1) Climb the "Witblitz Direct" pitch off the Sundeck Boulder. Cramer's guide calls it 10a.
P2) Here you could go up the off-width chimney of Crisco way(5.8), the beautiful second pitch of Green Savior, which could be soloed or simul climbed by a strong party (5.5), or the variation to the right of that(which is 5.8). Use one of these three options to gain the "Comfort Ledge" at the base of the big pitch on Witblitz
P3) Climb the main pitch of Witblitz. There are three options. One is 5.10 dangerous runout, straight up variation. Two is to start straight up, then head right onto a face before the runout, and do a 5.7/.8 runout to a crack out right which joins back into the corner up higher. The third option is start at a super exposed spot out right on the comfort ledge and pull an intense move into the bottom of the crack that eventually leads back into the corner...
...whichever way you choose, belay at the ledge above the beargrass.
P4) Climb up and traverse right around a corner on a short traverse that takes you to the base of "The Bottomless Corner". (5.10) this is a section of the Alter of the Sun linkup
- ***For the Sorcerer Start see Cameron Kings comment below
P5) Climb the "Bottomless Corner" to its top and then traverse right across a wild airy traverse that is fairly well protected to a two hanger rappel station (5.10).
P6) Climb straight up, clip a piton, then move right to a juggy face section that is a variation on Kingpin's face pitch. If you manage for rope drag you can have a nice cruisy climb all the way up through the upper blocky section of this pitch and on into the splitter 5.8 corner of Kingpin's final pitch. If you want to top out, take it all the way to the top, or belay at the first huge ledge in this dihedral and be set up for the Cinnamon Girl topout.
P7) And for one last, wild, gratuitous pitch. traverse out left into the Cinnamon Girl pitch. There are two variations. Take the handrail to the first vertical crack and climb that (5.11), or go farther out the handrail to the second vertical crack and top out on that (5.10). Either way, make sure you look down.
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