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Routes in Humane Society Wall
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Dogcatcher, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fido S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Humane Society T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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License Required S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Roofus T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Roofus Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sick Puppies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Eric Klement and Steve Habovstak, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,107 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Danie White on Aug 25, 2013 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Awesome route with great bolting on bomber quartzite but bring the pump repellent as the climbing is continuously vertical, crimpy, and technical for such a short route. There are some key holds that are hard to identify from the ground due to the swirled nature of the rock, so do your best to read it in advance, but realize you may have to do a little on-sighting while on route. And just when you think you've crimped enough, voila!, an interesting undercling and some better holds finish things off. Well worth the hike just for this one route but there are plenty of other interesting ones right nearby.
Location
Find your way to the main wall of the Humane Society Area. The main wall is the northwest facing wall at the top of the talus field and it is also the furthest wall to the west. Fido is located between the routes Humane Society (10.b mixed) on the left and Sick Puppies (12.b sport) on the right. It shares a first bolt with Humane Society before breaking right. Fido is directly above a water seep frequented by wasps (which seemed to leave us well enough alone). There is a ramp angling up and right from which you can execute the start moves if you choose not to tempt the wasps with a more direct start.
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