Mountain Project Logo

Rumney first timer suggestions

Original Post
Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

Hi all,

Im heading to rumney for the first time in mid September. Being new to the area Im looking for suggestions as to some must climb routes or best quality routes or best walls to spend a day at. I can lead sport comfortably on 5.9 and below and im starting to get into some 5.10 stuff. id love to hear your thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks
Kurt

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665

theres so much to climb just go around and youll find something enjyabe to climb at the grades. Yoda (5.9)on the vader wall is great, rack for sale 5.7 on triple corners, lots of good routes on the parking lot wall too!

Ashley C · · Northern Colorado · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I agree with Travis- there are a lot of options for you.

If you're looking to set up shop at one wall and spend the day there, be flexible depending on crowds. The parking lot wall and the meadows have fun stuff to offer, but with basically no approach from the lot, they can get crowded. some of the walls are pretty close together though so it's easy to hop around.

other options to consider- read up on the routes on armed and dangerous or head out to Jimmy Cliff

Jay Morse · · Hooksett, New Hampshire · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

At your level I would go to Jimmy Cliff and Darth Vadar. A classic 5.8+, 5.9, 5.9+, and 5.10a between the two crags. Lots of easier stuff on the left side of Jimmy Cliff to warm up on. Don't miss Lonesome Dove!

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

thanks for all the input guys, sounds like some really great stuff so far. basically being my first time there and Rumney has so many routes its a little overwhelming and I don't want to waste half a day on crappy routes (if that's even possible at rumney) or just wandering around aimlessly. thanks again for all the input

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

I would check out Meadows and Jimmy Cliff. Clip-a-Dee dodah is a great bolted two pitch climb at the top of jimmy cliff that I love doing right as the sun is going down. On the climbers right section there's a great climb called "The Nutcracker" that I would also recommend.

One of the cool things about Rumney is you pass a lot of the lower crags on the way up high, so you can always stop in and scope it out. As always, parking is a crazy issue, so try to carpool and plan on being early.

Jfaub · · Ottawa, On · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 795

For the range you stated, I have a few suggestions.
-Lonesome Dove 5.10a (Jimmy Cliff)
-Junco 5.8+ (Jimmy Cliff)
-Drilling for Dollars 5.8 (Jimmy Cliff)
-Cold Turkey 5.10c (Meadows)
-Metamorphasis 5.8+ (Main Wall?)
-Climb Anchovie Caper 5.8 and then do Mister Meaner 5.9+ as the second pitch (Main Wall)

I'm definitely forgetting stuff though. And i've also only been to Rumney once... So I haven't done that many "classics" there.

RoughneckNine0 · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 91

+1 to Jimmy Cliff and all of Jfaubs suggesttions. Can be a "hike" to get up there but the climbing is really good at that level.

Also:

Things I Never Learned (Jimmy Cliff Left)

Toxic Gumbo (Armed and Dangerous)

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

Parking Lot and Meadows Walls. They basically run together, have a short approach, and have a good variety of good climbs in the range you are talking about.

Jimmy Cliff also has some good stuff in that range -- but not nearly as many climbs, and the hike in is way longer. I'd say worth heading for only if Parking Lot & Meadows are so crowded that you're waiting in line for every climb you want to get on. (Or, of course, for later visits after you've climbed a bunch of stuff at the close walls already and are looking for variety.)

Yoda is a great looking route -- hard to believe something that steep looking goes at 5.9 -- but there's not a lot of routes at the Vader wall to do at your grade level. Still, if hiking to/from Jimmy Cliff, you pass by, and if the route is free, it is worth hopping on.

Ben Mackall · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,823

Curly for President 5.9 (Meadows)
Snake Skin Slab 5.7 (5.8 crag)
Underdog 5.10a if you want a challenge (Main Crag)
Hippos on Parade 5.9+ (Parking Lot Wall)
Glory Jeans 5.7 (Meadows)
Masterpiece 5.10a (Bonsai)

second Lonesome Dove, Junco, Yoda/Vader. Lonesome Dove is one of the most enjoyable climbs I've ever been on and is VERY approachable for budding 5.10 leaders.

Have fun! Love and miss Rumney.

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

All of the aforementioned routes plus the best 5.9 at rumney--"B-b-buttress".

Clay Hansen · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 40

Inspect your bolted anchors. Every time I'm there I see a lot of people belaying through anchors, the closer to the road you are the worse it gets. I've seen some scary grooved stuff, and like any sport crag you get the hand full of...less educated people. Check out the Hinterlands Crag, the approach was fairly steep and a bit overgrown if I remember correctly, but it was by far my favorite. You can toprope Nikki's Crack (11D) by climbing the 5.6 next to it. Super fun.

Ming · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,955

I don't think b-b-buttress is a 5.9 anymore. 5.9+ at least. Rock fall last year

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Shaelyn's Way and Chloe's at the parking lot wall are great. Clippity and the route next to it for easy two pitch clip ups. The three routes around the corner from the above too. Rack for sale is one of my favorites Yikes, so many!

If you're coming in multiple cars please leave one at the historical society / church lot in the center of town and take one car.

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

thanks guys for all the input, this really helps me narrow down what im going to get on.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

All of B-Mkll's recommendations. I like to mention Metamorphosis (.8/.8+), El Diego Left (.9/.9+), and Rock du Jour Direct, P1& P2 (.7 & .9++ but so worth it) as well. I like Egg McMeadows (likely .10a onsight) too.
I find Yoda and its twin Obiwan remarkably steep for .9/.9+.
IMO, Metamorphosis, and RdJ Direct, Underdog are the gems among them.

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

I visited Rumney recently and had a really good time on Underdog. One of the best routes I've ever climbed. It's a little tricky, though. I couldn't flash it. Once I figured out the trick to the crux the RP came easily enough.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Rumney first timer suggestions"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.