Tips to improve efficiency FOR multipitch trad.

Hey guys,

I've been busting into grade IV multi pitch, and my most consistent problem has been running out of time in the day.

Obviously this means that I have to train harder in order to lead faster and be able to climb more pitches in a day, but I am looking for this and more. What are some of the tricks that you have developed over the years to make you and your partner faster on the wall?

I'm looking specifically for rope management and switchover tips, plus anything that you have thought up over the years.

Thanks!!

Sam

try leading in blocks. the advantages as I see them:

faster changeovers; the follower cleans onto a sling, hands it to leader and starts stacking the rope while leader racks.

faster leads; I've found it's mentally easier to lead in blocks, and it's physically to only have to climb consecutive pitches without (much) rest once every 5-6 pitches instead of every time you climb.

faster following; climb fast without the mental stress of saving energy for the upcoming lead.

-This one may be a gimme but organize gear as you climb. As in arrange cams and draws where you want them to be for your lead so you don't have to do it at the belay.

- I just started using this one and I love it. If using auto locking belay devices (which if climbing grade fours you probably are) as the second gets to the belay he can take his partners belay device thus leaving himself on belay and locked off on the belay device that just brought him up. Repeat at every belay

- Put all the gear you have left on one side of your harness so it's easier for the next leader to pluck off. If I'm climbing with a well known partner (i.e. I know where he like his gear to be) I will even rack the gear on his harness for him

Rope management is always a difficult one for me. There doesn't seem to be any real tricks. The tried and true method of stacking shorter loops as you get to the end of the rope really does work. You just have to take time and perfect it.

coloradomountainschool.com/…

This reiterates what a lot of folks have already stated but with a little bit more elaboration. One mantra I tell myself while actually striving to climb faster is "upward movement." What I mean by this is always be moving upwards whether that be your foot, hand, whatever... just keep moving up and don't stall out.

Sam,
here's some ideas.

1. use a stopwatch, head cam or video cam with a view of the route to record how long each thing takes. i.e. the time between the leader saying she is safe until the ropes are in the Reverso, the time taken to re-rack...etc.... You really need this is you are to make the greatest savings in time.

2. different types of belay set up are faster than others, but the time difference is much less than the time difference between people. So practice a few systems, again with a stop watch, until you can't get any faster.

3. a logical rack, i.e. not a random mix of cam from many different manufactures.

4. learn how to simul-climb with a mircotraxion.

5. spend a day with a guide who has a reputation for being fast.

6. if you climb multi pitch bolted routes then know how to do a flying swap.

7. if you climb routes with bolted belays with high quality bolts in solid rock try using a Banshee belay formed from the rope.

8. get the second to clean onto a cleaning sling, or onto a few logical bunches on his harness to there is a very small number of thing to pass over at the belay.

9. bring the second up on a direct belay so you can safely sort the exact details of the next pitch by reading the guide book before he arrives at the stance.

10. spend a day learning to be fast. i.e. dedicate a day to making your systems faster. Don't care about the routes, and short multi pitch will work best for this.

-Most time seems to be lost building anchors. Don't pass up a good ledge or huge tree to only have to build some time consuming hanging belay 10m higher.

-Start cleaning your anchor as soon as the leader yells off belay. Be ready to move within seconds of the leader yelling on belay.

-Consider a hip belay for bringing up a second on easy ground.

-Yard on that gear when pressed. Better to not be able to spray about your free ascent then get benighted.

-Lighten your load. Don't take a bivy sack, 2x change of clothes, and whatever else you don't really need.

-Always be busy, have a sense of urgency.

-Practice the mechanics on routes several number grades below your limit.

Read Hans Florines book on speed climbing.

Then go find a partner with similar goals and practice. Get comfortable running it out and try not to place nuts, they are slower than cams