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What does low in the grade mean?

Original Post
Account Delete · · Lafayette, LA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 51

Hi there what does low in the grade mean?

I was reading the description of a climb and it says that the climb is low in the grade. The rating of the route is 5.12a.

Does this mean that the climb is an easier 5.12?

James Willis · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined May 2013 · Points: 165

yes.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,195

It means it's probably only 5.9+.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20
Andy Hansen wrote:It means it's probably only 5.9+.
I always wonder "plus how much"?
Jeremy H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 350

It means it is easy for the grade but not quite easy enough to be the next grade down.

Marathon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 275

Never heard of low in the grade, sounds like noob shit.

I've heard some one say its soft for the grade.

What they wanted to say is, I've climbed harder routes at the same grade and I want to let you know that I have a lot of experience at that grade and I climb a lot harder.

Some times they just say "its a Gimmie" or there's no move harder than 5.9.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25
Grover wrote:What they wanted to say is, I've climbed harder routes at the same grade and I want to let you know that I have a lot of experience at that grade and I climb a lot harder.
This is pretty much a direct translation.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Bill Czajkowski wrote: I always wonder "plus how much"?
always assumed + was c / d and - was a / b
Robbie Mackley · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2010 · Points: 85

^Me too.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Well you always got to look at when it was rated and what exactly they mean. If someone says they are unsure of the grade but it is 5.9+ i would assume there is a good chance it is a 10+. If it is modern than most likely they are just saying 5.9+ then i would say it is likely a hard 5.9.

Heck as long as it is a safe route i always knock off 2 levels if i am grading so if i call it a 5.8 i mean a 5.10 cause i hate when people refuse to get on something because of the grade. If it is a multipitch / run out route not so much cause i wouldn't want someone to get over their head, but come on places where there is a bolt every 10ft just get on the thing already.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
John Marsella wrote: But not for 9. Regular 9 = 9, whereas 9+ (esp. old school 9+) means probably scary and could be anything up to about 11a. Amirite?
You are right. Before grade inflation 5.9+ was pretty much as hard as was possible. Add /A2 - then it definitely was/is the limit
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Grover wrote:Never heard of low in the grade, sounds like noob shit.
It's common in British guidebooks. They say "high in the grade" also.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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