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Account Delete
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Aug 30, 2014
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Lafayette, LA
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 51
Hi there what does low in the grade mean? I was reading the description of a climb and it says that the climb is low in the grade. The rating of the route is 5.12a. Does this mean that the climb is an easier 5.12?
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James Willis
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Aug 30, 2014
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Phoenix, AZ
· Joined May 2013
· Points: 165
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Andy Hansen
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Aug 30, 2014
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 3,301
It means it's probably only 5.9+.
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Bill Czajkowski
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Aug 30, 2014
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Albuquerque, NM
· Joined Oct 2008
· Points: 20
Andy Hansen wrote:It means it's probably only 5.9+. I always wonder "plus how much"?
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Jeremy H
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Aug 30, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 350
It means it is easy for the grade but not quite easy enough to be the next grade down.
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Marathon
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Aug 30, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 275
Never heard of low in the grade, sounds like noob shit. I've heard some one say its soft for the grade. What they wanted to say is, I've climbed harder routes at the same grade and I want to let you know that I have a lot of experience at that grade and I climb a lot harder. Some times they just say "its a Gimmie" or there's no move harder than 5.9.
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Ryan Watts
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Aug 30, 2014
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Bishop, CA
· Joined Apr 2013
· Points: 25
Grover wrote:What they wanted to say is, I've climbed harder routes at the same grade and I want to let you know that I have a lot of experience at that grade and I climb a lot harder. This is pretty much a direct translation.
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Anonymous
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Aug 31, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined unknown
· Points: 0
Bill Czajkowski wrote: I always wonder "plus how much"? always assumed + was c / d and - was a / b
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Robbie Mackley
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Aug 31, 2014
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 85
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Anonymous
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Aug 31, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined unknown
· Points: 0
Well you always got to look at when it was rated and what exactly they mean. If someone says they are unsure of the grade but it is 5.9+ i would assume there is a good chance it is a 10+. If it is modern than most likely they are just saying 5.9+ then i would say it is likely a hard 5.9. Heck as long as it is a safe route i always knock off 2 levels if i am grading so if i call it a 5.8 i mean a 5.10 cause i hate when people refuse to get on something because of the grade. If it is a multipitch / run out route not so much cause i wouldn't want someone to get over their head, but come on places where there is a bolt every 10ft just get on the thing already.
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Eric Engberg
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Aug 31, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 0
John Marsella wrote: But not for 9. Regular 9 = 9, whereas 9+ (esp. old school 9+) means probably scary and could be anything up to about 11a. Amirite? You are right. Before grade inflation 5.9+ was pretty much as hard as was possible. Add /A2 - then it definitely was/is the limit
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Optimistic
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Sep 1, 2014
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New Paltz
· Joined Aug 2007
· Points: 450
Grover wrote:Never heard of low in the grade, sounds like noob shit. It's common in British guidebooks. They say "high in the grade" also.
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