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I made many flash with Sven Lavransen

Original Post
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

I write to tell to you that I read Rock & Ice article about Sven Lavransen. It say he not real, but I was his roommate in Boulder and make many good flash with Sven of hard route 5.12+ and more in Indian Creek, Colorado, Boulder area too, in early 2000s.

Sven could no climb after rotator cuff tear and surgery in 2004. He get very sad and move from Boulder. Could no stand to be around many who climb. I do no know where he live, but I hear he now just smoke the green herb and play video game in Australia. This is very sad to me. Sven was my good friend and sport climb partner.

If you want know more about his 4-plan for make hard and hard flash on more route, I tell you good. 4-plan was very good train for make flash hard route. Sven train this way before he tear shoulder. I think Rock & Ice article pretty good to explain this overall, but 4-plan work so well only after Sven try so hard, much more effort than normal person.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Sorry my english is a no good

pfinnegan · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2004 · Points: 65

Sven!!

I need the beta for Hands of Destiny!

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
pfinnegan wrote:Sven!! I need the beta for Hands of Destiny!
Finnegan, I can no tell the beta to you for hands of destiny. On this day Sven make very enjoyable flash for himself, I no climb this day. The reason there is for this I try too hard with make the preparation for my 4-plan, and I strain my finger, needing much rest over the week comings.

On this day I do belay Sven on Hands of Destiny. I see him climb effortlessly like graceful angel, as if no exerting the force on any holds.
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

I also tell to you please to tell me, if anyone know how to reach Sven Lavransen. I very much like to speak with my old friend and partner for the sport climb. I also like to know whether he start the climbing again after his shoulder injury and if he make any hard flash in Australia.

Sven tell to me once, "It's not the routes in your 4-plan, it's the effort and determination in your 4-plan for excellent making of the next flash"

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Since I am no doing the climbing sport with Sven a no more, I go for climbings yesterday in honor Sven.

I make very enjoyable hard flash of 13D route My Significant Other in Clear Creek Canyon. Much fighting through difficult crux along steep arete with many hold type on the climbing rocks. I almost come off but then remember how hard Sven must would of try if he climb this, and my forearms becomes refreshed.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Does really no one have the carings for my enjoyable hard flashes?

Jack Sparrow · · denver, co · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 1,560

haha this is great the return of SVEN he gets great satisfaction from the flash

Will Wallace · · Olympia, WA · Joined May 2005 · Points: 520

Aleks, please regale us with your epic tales of bold and daring flashes! I also miss Sven and his stories of making pumping flashes with the 4-point plan.

Mike Nevko · · Currently Charlotte · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 1,626

I am enjoying this, greatly.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

Sven was the cousin to Ren Hoek! He looked out of shape back when he appeared on that TV show with his cat Stimpy. ;)

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

I wish Aleks luck, but I think the orignal Sven is going to be a hard act to follow.

darkbyrd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Aleks, can you teach us more about the 4-plan?

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
darkbyrd wrote:Aleks, can you teach us more about the 4-plan?
Yes, I teach you. I would have much more informations in the weeks coming after trip to Indian Creek, CO for this weekend, and possible stay next week. I possible to be developing also new addition to 4-plan for more and more excellent flash.
darkbyrd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0
Aleks Zebastian wrote: Yes, I teach you. I would have much more informations in the weeks coming after trip to Indian Creek, CO for this weekend, and possible stay next week. I possible to be developing also new addition to 4-plan for more and more excellent flash.
Thank you Aleks. I hope you have many excellent flash this weekend
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Love it! Is this an MP sport climbing equivalent of Burt Bronson?

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

4-Plan no work, 4-Plan break shoulder.

Bruce MacLachlan · · Newport Hills, WA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Hello, many climbing friend!

I write to tell to you that I return from Indian Creek Colorado, with many enjoyable flash! I love this area of climbing rocks, as the Utah part of Boulder is beautiful desert, and best place in Colorado for crack!. Someone once tell to me I find crack near Colfax Ave., but I go there and see no climbing rocks, so they must perhaps only be talking about this buildering that the peoples do? Would anyone share with me where there is good buildering route there?

I go on this climbing trip after my girlfriend announce she breaks up with me. This news hit me like norwegian icicle to the heart, and I very, very sad. But I think the pain maybe provide me much inspiration for the flashings.

I first climb air swedin on flash. My fingers fit nicely in this crack and I find it not so difficult, even with the hard foot smearings and enjoyable runout at crux. On this trip I also make difficult flash of Ruby's Cafe. On roof section I have trouble finding handhold at first, and almost fall on laybacking near anchors, but I feel it would very much be so very enjoyable to make this flash, and I hang on.

On Six Star Crack flash attempt, I fall on pitch 2 off fingers sector and can not hold on, but I make eventual redpoint after several tries to add to 4-plan pyramid. I also make flash of belly full of bad berries, which I feel is not so hard because I turn upside down to hang from feet for easy rest, and then climb with refreshed forearms. I am also able to flash Chris Schulte boulder problem I see on video online that look like a head of horse. I find compression moves on sides of horse head to be very nice, even with much difficulty for the flash.

Perhaps when I am no longer feeling such sadness about my girlfriend, I will tell to you more about how I work to develop the 4-plan, and perhaps one day start a training book and website. I think I will call it "4-plan for difficult but enjoyable flash" and dedicate this to my friend Sven Lavransen. Please let me know if any climbing friend have good suggestion for better name.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
caughtinside wrote:Is it true that after completing the 4 plan, Sven retired from climbing, became a monk and now lives in Switzerland?
Mr. Inside,

I believe 4-plan to be a lifelong pursuit with goal you never truly achieve, although you will raise your level of consciousness and become great climber with many excellent hard flash in this 4-plan process!
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Is it true that if you only complete 3 out of the 4 that you can have your hand chopped off and your father wears a dark hockey mask with a cape and threatens you with the dark side of the force and your friends get tortured in a cloud city and then your best friend gets frozen in metal tomb that levitates but, even though that's actually pretty cool, you have to go to a desert planet and kill a slug just to unfreeze your buddy; only to get threatened later on by the dark side, again from your black hockey masked father, and be electrocuted repeatedly by his boss, but you get saved and then have a dance off party with a pig roast and you find out that hottie on the desert chained to the slug is really your sister and you can't touch her?

All because you left your swamp training module before that 4th was finished, is that true???

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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