1/2" plywood for home wall

I always hear about using 3/4" plywood for home climbing walls. Anyone out there ever just use 1/2" plywood since its cheaper?

We use 3/4 on our wall with it flexes slightly not much I would assume 1/2 would flex too much

Construction guy here... I'd recommend 3/4. 5/8 would be adequate if you're not too serious about it. If the price difference is not too much, go for the 3/4. 1/2 is too thin. Not only will it flex and potentially blow out a tee nut, but you will also have a problem with the nuts being too deep for the plywood and being more prone to spin in the hole, thus making your holds loose.

3/4 CDX.

^^^
what he said. 1/2" (actually 15/32") is way to flimsy.
5/8 would probably work well for vertical walls, 3/4 would be best for overhanging walls.

I've always used standard grade plywood, kind of rough. I've always wanted to do a wall using nicer finish grade plywood though.

I used 3/4" plyform used for concrete forms. Very smooth and extremely durable. Don't skimp on the plywood, the holds are going to be the big money investment...

I've used 3/8" but it was two layers so it could be bent around a curve.

1/2 5 layer ply would work on a vertical wall if the framing was 12" on center and the climber was no more than 100#s.

definitely go 3/4.

As others said: 3/4 definitly.

one of my home walls is 1/2 (I tried to skimp on $ and on hauling the extra weight upstairs) and it does not feel near as sturdy (= not as sound quality) as the 3/4 on my other walls. Also the Tnuts I used were 1/2 deep and on the 1/2 thick plywood they have protruded (on some, not all) and it makes the hold not sit flush (again sometimes).

Learn from others! 3/4 for sure.

3/4's is the best, even if you buy cheaper grades of plywood. Half inch will probably leave most standard t-nuts sticking up, almost out of the hole. Use plenty of framing, lots of 3 inch screws to mount it. AND if you place some monster sized hold, chances are a good dyno will rip it right the fuk out of the wood. Back up the monster holds behind the board, with a longer bolt through the t-nut where you can place a 3by3 inch chunk of half inch plywood to strengthen the area the hold covers, and backed up with a good locking nut on it.
I would think screw on holds might not hold as good either, without thicker wood or a backup board for the screws to bite into. I've used half inch for some boxy features I've built, but they were totally anchored in with huge 8 inch bolt, dozens of screws and a 2by4 baseboard built into the feature for mounting. Good walls use 3/4, and it's well worth the money for stability and longevity. My outdoor wall has panels of 3/4 plywood, painted against the weather,that have stood up to action and severe weather for 19 years now, without replacement.

holy shit guys 5/8 is fine :p

5.samadhi wrote:holy shit guys 5/8 is fine :p

Seldom find that size to use here, but agree it has functioned OK when I did use it on occasion. But for longevity , get your larger outdoor walls built from 3/4s instead.

yeah if its gonna get rained on it might not last LOL

You might want to cover it with a tarp if you have trees to tie off to if its outside.

Benefit of 5/8" is that its a bit lighter and easier to get into place especially if its like you and your 110# gf helping you build your wall (my experience two times haha!).

peace and happy wall building...its one of the funnest side-hobbies a climber can have....that and mushroom/pot growing hahahahaa

5.samadhi wrote:yeah if its gonna get rained on it might not last LOL You might want to cover it with a tarp if you have trees to tie off to if its outside. Benefit of 5/8" is that its a bit lighter and easier to get into place especially if its like you and your 110# gf helping you build your wall (my experience two times haha!). peace and happy wall building...its one of the funnest side-hobbies a climber can have....that and mushroom/pot growing hahahahaa

Yeah, toting a full panel of 3/4 treated plywood single handed up an extension ladder to get above the 12 ft. level was no fun at all. Treated plywood 4by8 sheets must weigh like near a hundred pounds! My treated wood, most with at least 3 coats of paint by now, have lasted uncovered in direct sunlight and weather for up to 19 years. Only 2 untreated ones that got all the runoff on them, partially rotted out on me so far. Stain did no good, had to load up a good layer of paint to protect them, both sides if both are exposed to weather. Most of my wall is a storage 'shed', so the inside is unpainted and all is covered by a tarpapered roof of half inch wood.

I think the main point is the T-nut issue. They just work better in the 3/4 because they are recessed in the hole a bit. I bet a heavy guy on steep angle with a big hold could blow a t-nut out in 1/2 in wood.

Sir Spanxalot wrote:I think the main point is the T-nut issue. They just work better in the 3/4 because they are recessed in the hole a bit. I bet a heavy guy on steep angle with a big hold could blow a t-nut out in 1/2 in wood.

Been done on 3/4 even,,at the RRG Rocktober fest a few years ago, the 'dyno' contest leaping off the same starter hold. It got yanked right out of the board on the second night, in need of repairs to continue the contest.

@woodchuck,
good idea on the backer for the big holds. I might have to build in a few on my buddies wall.

Tevis Blom wrote:@woodchuck, good idea on the backer for the big holds. I might have to build in a few on my buddies wall.

Been doing that , even on my 3/4 wall over the weaker, softer, 'starting-to-rot-out areas on old boards. When an old t-nut pulls right out of the wall, I just add a good sized replacement piece screwed in to patch over the hole, add a new t-nut to it, a longer bolt, and a back up oversized washer and nut behind it. I can always go inside the shed, to work 'behind' nearly all the panels as needed too.

im going to be using 2 layers of 3/8 or 1/2 inch ply for my wall this winter. one layer will be vertical the other will be screwed and glued on at a 45 degree. this will allow to build rounded features for a more natural feeling wall. plus itll be fun as all hell to build

Just use the 3/4 plywood it's what EVERY climbing hold manufacture recommends. So you are telling me that 2 sheets are cheaper then 1 sheet of 3/4? If it is the price difference is only a few bucks. Don't skimp on your wall. Your only cheating yourself if you do. ( with the time spent making repairs to your wall).

Matthew Forsythe wrote:im going to be using 2 layers of 3/8 or 1/2 inch ply for my wall this winter. one layer will be vertical the other will be screwed and glued on at a 45 degree. this will allow to build rounded features for a more natural feeling wall. plus itll be fun as all hell to build

Ok this sounds cool. I'd go 2 layers 3/8. It sounds like you plan on installing one layer vertically (i.e. "standing them up" as we say in the business) and the other layer horizontally (i.e. "laying them down").

Here's some tips: Don't stand them up. They're really hard to bend. The sheets are easier to bend if you "lay them down", or in other words, the 8 foot axis of the sheet is perpendicular to the studs. Do both layers like this but stagger the joints between layers. Start the first layer with a full sheet, then on the second layer start with a cut (I'd go 4 foot by 3 foot wide). This way there is never a joint going the whole way through both layers.

Why? It will be stronger and the curve will be more natural and consistent. Definitely glue between layers. I would even use a ratchet strap to cinch the sheet down tight to the curve before screwing it if I had to. It's tricky sometimes screwing sheets to a radius- I've done it and sometimes you have to try different tricks to get it tight to the framing, and the joints straight and tight. It's not as easy as you'd think.

Sounds like cool project! I hope this helps and if you need any advice you can PM me. Good luck!

Capt. Impatient wrote:Just use the 3/4 plywood it's what EVERY climbing hold manufacture recommends. So you are telling me that 2 sheets are cheaper then 1 sheet of 3/4? If it is the price difference is only a few bucks. Don't skimp on your wall. Your only cheating yourself if you do. ( with the time spent making repairs to your wall).

not saying its cheaper im saying itll be stronger and easier to form rounded angles.