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Need a warmer boot for ice...

Original Post
Scott Robertson · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2002 · Points: 110

I've been using the Sportiva Nepal Evo's for a few years now and absolutely love them, but there are instances (when the temps get close to 0 fahrenheit) where my feet simply can't stay warm.

For those who have tried many boots out there, what's a step up in terms of warmth, Sportiva's fit my feet very well, but throw out other brand/choice models. I'm hoping there's something out there that's between Nepal warmth and Spantik-insanity.

Will be used mainly for ice climbing (WI5 and below) in frigid temps, and lower-48 winter mountaineering (WA/OR mostly).

Looking forward to your suggestions folks.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

get batura 2s

Jfaub · · Ottawa, On · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 795

For what it's worth, I also have the Nepal EVO and I love them for ice/mountaineering in Canada and northeast ice (I've used them down to like -30C in the dacks)

But if you feel they don't keep your feet warm enough, maybe check out these?
sportiva.com/products/footw…

Edit : Batura 2.0's are also a great option.

OR

Buy some super gaiters. Example : mec.ca/product/0315-168/wil… (It'll save you some money and a break-in time!)
Combine that with chemical heat pads and you're good to go!

Scott Robertson · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2002 · Points: 110

Yeah I've spent plenty of time in Canada with them as well. It's a circulation issue.

Keep the feedback coming, great recommendations.

Steven Kovalenko · · Calgary · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

Do you use custom insoles? I find regular Superfeet to be much colder than stock footbeds. I have never used the winter Red Hot Superfeet, but they might be worth a shot. Or go back to stock footbeds. Adding the extra tongue also adds a bit of warmth.

I find the Scarpa Phantom Guides to be a significant step up in warmth from Nepal Evos. Used to climb in Nepal Evos, but my feet have changed to fit Scarpa better. I climb in the Canadian Rockies and never have issues with the Phantom Guides. The real secret here is... when it's -20C or colder, go ski touring instead of risking your extremities climbing crappy, explosive brittle ice.

Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612

if you're going to spend all the money to have a warmer boot than the Nepal, go with the Spantik. Yeah it's way warmer and bulkier, but I have climbed the hardest stuff i've ever climbed in that boot (a dozen pitches of WI6 with a pack on) and it performs.

You can routinely find the Spantiks on ebay or Mountain Project used gear forum for about $400.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

I never thought the Nepals were all that warm. I sold them for a pair of P-Guides and am happy. I'd look at a pair of Phantom 6K's also.

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401
Ray Pinpillage wrote:I'd look at a pair of Phantom 6K's also.
I get cold feet. My solution (expensive) was a pair of Phantom 6000s sized larger than normal, then I replaced the surprisingly thin stock liners with Intuition Denali liners + Superfeet. Paired with supergaiters they're warm enough for the real Denali.
AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

Even through the 'Polar Vortex' last winter, my feet stayed happy in Phantom 6000's. I have a brand new pair of Phantom Guides (single boot) for sale. Yours at a great deal if your interested.

These are new from Lowa and look pretty promising. They're Similar to the Phantom 6k's.

Here is Lowa's website with more info.

beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200

Do you use reflective insoles? I used to lose a lot of heat from the bottom of my boot and these helped a lot.

Gaiters are good, keeps your calves warmer. Same idea is to make sure you're wearing knee high socks. Maybe the combo of high socks and gaiters will do the trick?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
beccs wrote:Do you use reflective insoles? I used to lose a lot of heat from the bottom of my boot and these helped a lot. Gaiters are good, keeps your calves warmer. Same idea is to make sure you're wearing knee high socks. Maybe the combo of high socks and gaiters will do the trick?
Yep the red superfeet. On a really cold day you can pop a hand warmer behind the tongue of the shoe as well.
Jeffrey Dunn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 229

Also recently switched from Sportiva (nepal extremes evo then spantik) to the Phantom 6k's. These are a really great boot and have made my feet so much happier. Completely different boot from the Spantik (i.e. much more flexible, much less ankle support). I used to wear Trango's for mixed but now I'll just do it all in the Phantom's. Dont miss having to warm my feet back up after every long belay in cold weather.

Cale Hoopes · · Sammamish, WA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

A very complex topic, really.

I went through this exact journey a few years ago and finally got it "resolved".

The best advice I have is sometime this season hit one of the ice festivals with your current boots. Then demo as much as you can.

Bozeman, Ouray, Cody, New Hampshire, whatever. I tried La Sportiva, Salewa and Scarpa. Was intrigued by Asolo, Lowa and Boreal. However, I didn't try those brands.

I currently own:

La Sportiva Baruntse

and

Scarpa Phantom Guides

In very cold days, the Baruntse are great. I believe the Phantom 6000s would also be totally awesome for that. However, I've been in very cold days (less than 10 degrees) in the Phantom Guides too. Both boots perform well. I tested out various sizes of the Batura 2.0 and the Salewa Pro Gaiter. Fit was the decider - which can effect how your feet stay warm. The Batura had a fantastic ankle flexibility. However, it was a little TOO much flexibility. The Salewa were way too stiff. The Phantom Guides were good enough for fast ascending and worked perfectly for vertical ice. As far as the Baruntse go, they are a fantastic double boot with a Palau heat molded liner. I had the whole boot adjusted to my feet and I've never looked back from there.

Using demos will help you determine what fits and what you need. The great part of it is that you can take those demos to lots of different terrain.

By the way, for one day trips - although it's not always possible - you can stand in hot water and then dry your feet off and step into the boots. The heat will get retained. It's genius. However, that's really just for doing festivals and such. Real alpinism - that's not an option.

Another option is to throw a bunch of handwarmers in the boot a few hours before using them. It will heat up the liner/boot and improve fit but might actually keep your feet warmer for the first few hours. Just a thought.

I've tried all these things. There is very little insulation in the Nepal Evo's so I'm not surprised about your experience.

FINALLY, the last thing you can try with the Evo's is a Supergaiter over the entire boot or an overboot. I wouldn't recommend an overboot with technical climbing - but what the hey, it would save you some money. You could wear an overboot and cut some spots in the overboot to fit the automatic crampons. Supergaiters are kinda hard to find anymore since so many boots have integrated gaiters.

Good luck! It's a fun journey.

Here's a few links:
edwardsclimbing.blogspot.co…
gearthirty.blogspot.com/201…
coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Spantiks. Climb technical stuff surprisingly well. I've climbed in mine up to techy M8s (not too ideal on overhanging terrain where you have to lift your feet over you head over and over again).

sandrock · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 120

Have you tried battery powered boot warmers? I'd recommend getting a pair first for your Nepals before spending the cash on a whole new set of boots

Scott Robertson · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2002 · Points: 110

Freaking awesome feedback people. Thanks so much for the recommendations.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

spantiks weigh a billion pounds. As someone with also bad circiulation (and I do own spantiks) Id highly recommend a phantom guide or batura 2.0 After switching off the spantik its a world of difference in weight in the batura 2.0. and much better for technical ice climbing. Not that the spantik doesnt perform well..but they are a clunker.

Vince Pack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

I was also going to suggest the Baruntses since you already like the Nepals. I have the Baruntses and I'm a little worried they're going to be too warm for me. I'm pretty hot natured and my ice climbing will predominantly be in the southeast. Will be using them the first time this season. They're super comfortable after fitting the liners, and they aren't nearly as heavy feeling as expected.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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