tricams on granite?

I love my tricams, and I use them on pretty much every single climb(mostly in The Gunks). I carry the black, pink, red, and brown, and often doubles, especially pink and black. The pink is by far the most useful, followed by the black (though it's on the weak side at 5kn). I stopped carrying the white ones because they're very weak (only 3kn active, 2kn passive), but it's better than nothing I suppose, I may try using two of them right next to each other in the future, along with a screamer.

The new Tricam Evos are way easier to use, thanks to the stiffer sling.

Tricams definitely require more skill and practice for both placing and cleaning, but they're not hard to use once you learn how. I think most people who complain about how hard they are to clean, haven't learned how: As with nuts, give them a light tap or two with your nut tool to loosen them, then don't hit it any more. Use your fingers to pinch the sides of the tricam, or hook your nut tool behind the fulcrum, to keep the fulcrum from biting as you gently pull it out.

With a little finesse, these aren't much harder to clean than a nut, often it's actually easier. Yesterday I taught two friends who have never cleaned before, and they had no problem cleaning all my tricam placements on a multi-pitch climb, very quickly and with minimal use of the nut tool. Actually they did better than most experienced trad climbers I know, who are way too dependent on cams for everything, and don't know how to clean nuts or tricams without beating them with their nut tool like a hammer..

Bottom line, tricams are extremely versatile, and can be more bomber than anything else if well placed, you just need to take some time to practice and learn them. Often they're the only thing that will work in shallow horizontal cracks or small pockets,

I love my tricams to death (pink-blue) but honestly a large cam is going to be more versatile than a large tricam. Especially if you are climbing something near your limit, SLCams are going to suit you better as tricams are can be difficult to place in a bad stance, especially if you are cruxing. If you're going for mileage more than difficulty, though I would suggest them as they are significantly lighter and can be placed passively. Regardless, though, I would suggest getting a set of pink-blue (.5-2) for their versatility.

I love my tricams to death (pink-blue) but honestly a large cam is going to be more versatile than a large tricam. Especially if you are climbing something near your limit, SLCams are going to suit you better as tricams are can be difficult to place in a bad stance, especially if you are cruxing. If you're going for mileage more than difficulty, though I would suggest them as they are significantly lighter and can be placed passively. Regardless, though, I would suggest getting a set of pink-blue (.5-2) for their versatility.

I just got back from NH granite, and I used plenty of tricams. On the 5.6/5.8 (4th and alternate final 5th pitch) of thin air, 160ft of granite. I placed 4 tricams (black - brown, and I'd have used more if I didn't leave my doubles on the ground), 6 nuts, and 4 cams. I was leading on doubles, so 14 pieces, plus 2 trees is pretty normal for my sewn up routes.

On Mount Washington we didn't bring cams, just hexes, nuts and tricams. No issues there either. I suppose they served more function on MW, where they were used at every belay. Since I never fell on them, I only assume the solid placements would have also held in a fall.

OK, so everything written above sounds like good advise, but all you really need to know is that the pink tri-cam has its own fan page and poem!:

swarpa.net/~danforth/climb/…

How many other pieces of pro can make that claim? My love affair with pink (and red) tri-cams runs so deep, I've even been known to place them on well bolted sport climbs. Just can't shake the habit...

Yep love me some sprad climbing with my sweet little tricams. On a more serious note, I honestly can't tell which weighs more: a pink tricam or the dyneema attached to it. That thing is just so damn light

That poem rocks!

One thing that does suck about tricams.. If the leader falls on one. You better have a hammer or that thing's in there for good.

Bill Kirby wrote:That poem rocks! One thing that does suck about tricams.. If the leader falls on one. You better have a hammer or that thing's in there for good.

On the small ones, sometimes. Though, my partner and I have both taken falls on them and we retrieved them.

But my philosophy is, if they held the fall, they did their job and I'm good with them possibly being fixed gear.

Jake Jones wrote:For vertical hand and fist splitters nothing beats a cam. Although, if you can lead a #3 and #4 fist crack with big tricams, you would be the fucking man.

Weather permitting, I will next week. Hand first crack, no cams, just hexes and tricams. Only 5.5 though, so maybe that makes me a little fucking man. But Napolean was kinda bad ass, so I'm ok with that.

Darren E. wrote:OK, so everything written above sounds like good advise, but all you really need to know is that the pink tri-cam has its own fan page and poem!: swarpa.net/~danforth/climb/… ...

Thank you so much for sharing. This poem almost brought a tear to my eye.. Ok maybe I have an unhealthy adoration for my tricams, but they are awesome and well deserving of this ode.

Though I firmly believe they really aren't that bad to get out most of the time, if you know how.

I climb in the North East which means I climb, as far as rock type goes a little bit of everything, always carry tricams never been sorry yet.

I have no experience with northeastern granite, but my experience on Rocky Mountain and Sierra granite has led me to never use them. They're a specialty piece on the rock the OP was asking about (which I know intimately) and really not so much better in any way than cams or hexes to make up for the added weight in the midsizes.

I made the mistake of only taking 1 pink tricam up a short pitch only to realize halfway up the pitch that i really wished i had the extra tricam (had already placed my other pink tricam) that i left with my friend who was belaying me because the other full set of nuts and 10 cams i had would not fit in the finger crack i was climbing meaning i had to run out the last 30-40ft.

I will say i have some old style tricams that have the loose necks and i am almost ready to throw them away and buy some extra new thick neck ones because they can be placed 1 handed easy. The areas where i normally climb i love due to tons of horizontals and flaring cracks.

I am with alot of the others in saying big ones seem pretty worthless. Sure there are places you could use them but i have yet to find a spot that i couldn't also fit something else easier.

ViperScale wrote:I will say i have some old style tricams that have the loose necks and i am almost ready to throw them away and buy some extra new thick neck ones because they can be placed 1 handed easy..

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tape-on-tricams/107720079

ViperScale wrote: I am with alot of the others in saying big ones seem pretty worthless. Sure there are places you could use them but i have yet to find a spot that i couldn't also fit something else easier.

Belays. Then you have your cams for the pitch. I sometimes leave green and Grey on the ground, but you'd be surprised how often I do use them at belays. I only bring one set of cams, unless a route specifically calls for multiples, so this gives me a light option.

When you weigh them vs an equivalent SLCD, the advantage of carrying them for at a minimum, belays, adds up fast. Plus, they double up as large nuts as well. Versatility and weight savings, I don't get the hatred.

ViperScale wrote:I am with alot of the others in saying big ones seem pretty worthless. Sure there are places you could use them but i have yet to find a spot that i couldn't also fit something else easier.

Yeah but where else can you find a piece of pro that doubles as a can opener? Seems pretty useful in the backcountry cause then you don't have the extra weight of a can opener and don't have to dull out your knife

A pinky Tricam stopped my buddy after a 45 footer in southern Yosemite.

Had it blown, he would have taken a 100 footer at least.

Only thing that worked in that particular placement.

Alway bring the pink.

Brian Scoggins wrote:I have no experience with northeastern granite, but my experience on Rocky Mountain and Sierra granite has led me to never use them. They're a specialty piece on the rock the OP was asking about (which I know intimately) and really not so much better in any way than cams or hexes to make up for the added weight in the midsizes.

Like the OP and Bryan, I climb a lot at Vedauwoo. Unless I know they're not needed, I always carry the 4 smallest tricams even at Vedauwoo, Lumpy Ridge, Joshua Tree, Devils Tower, etc.. I set them only occasionally but very often they're a big help when employed. One of the places where I have found them most comforting is in small cracks that appear inside chimneys or offwidths. It takes time to develop an eye for where they go and that skill will never be developed, if you don't carry them. My advice to the OP would be to get 2 small tricams and then make your mind up after using them for a while. Like many posting here, I find other gear more useful (and stable!) in the larger sizes.
rob.calm

Whitehorse has solution pockets in granite, and for slab climbing there I'd call them essential, up to Brown.

rob.calm wrote: I find other gear more useful (and stable!) in the larger sizes. rob.calm

I've stacked the 6&7 in sandstone, but yea, in harder rock they're a little interesting. Definitely have to focus on not kicking them! :)