Clipping fixed gear means?....
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Just watched |
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So he chopped some bolts, scarring the rock. Then he proceeds to fail at climbing the route in good style by placing the gear, and in desperation to send, he preplaces gear (including non-clean gear (pitons), shame) and sends. |
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So BD sponsors these sort of climbers? |
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Absolutely nothing about the bolts would have prevented him from leading this on gear. So the chopping was done only to prevent *others* from climbing the route in a manner he disapproved of. |
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Preplacing clean pro on rappel would have been one step up from bolts perhaps as after you removed said pieces - the route might have been lead traditionally clean from the ground up someday by the next generation of climbers. But removing existing bolts to preplace gear - I simply don't understand the why behind it. |
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completely cheesy. |
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Isn't that booty? |
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Gunks Jesse, it's an FA if it's climbed free, which he did. So he absolutely got the FA, the question is about style. It would have been an FA on bolts, FA on preplaced gear, FA on self placed gear, FA free solo, FA mixed climb... Ground up or not. |
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Regardless of the style of protection I think he gets the FA because the upper head wall had remained unclimbed. While on trad gear it can not be called a trad ascent cause that would imply no pre-placed gear. |
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So he raps down and chops someone else's route they put the time, effort and money into bolting. The only way I could see this being remotely ok is if the guy who bolted the route said he could chop them, otherwise that's really just a dick move. |
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there isn't a grade high enough to chase with such sh*ty style- |
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It sure looked to me like the crack was easy and he preplaced the gear just to do it. By the time he got to the actual crux, there was no gear preplaced or otherwise, so he ran it out. |
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What I wanna know is: how did he do that move at 1:55? |
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I watched this video last week, expecting something cool. Wrong. |
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nicelegs wrote:I hate to use words like ground up, trad, scarring, pinkpoint, etc because they are typically the realm of weak climbers and old men who should have quit a long time ago (who are also weak climbers).Wow...hopefully when you get old or weak you'll just quit too. Just because you can climb "hard" it doesn't make you special. How do you climb and not say trad? Maybe something cool and hip like "gear"? It's just climbing dude...you know for fun. It's only impressive if someone knows what you are talking about. |
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I wouldn't say that old or weak climbers should quit (I'm pretty weak myself especially trad climbing). But they should also not criticize others for not climbing their way when different circumstances are making different things make sense. |
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Anybody who thinks climbing on fixed/preset gear with long pre-hung and equalized slings is anything but "sport" climbing is delusional. And chopping bolts just to hammer in some pitons -- further damaging the rock while not changing the characteristics of the climbing/protection other than decreasing longevity and making it less safe -- makes less sense than sticking your dick in a light socket. |
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Do ittttt. I'll write to BD too. |
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This is stupid. Let's talk about the global banking paradigm, that's more important. A Matriarch of the Rothschild family died this past week. That will create ripples..., or we can talk about Wes Welker's concussion, damn, that Swearinger guy is such a douche. |
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Let's talk more about big oil. That was a constructive conversation. Let's talk football so someone can say football is silly so I wanna talk about climbing. |
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Zappatista wrote:BPD, don't harsh their mellow. For a minute there, we were all in awe of how hard these hardmaynes posted. So hard...hard. Really hard.You're completely right Zappa. My girlfriend just left me because she read a few of those post and was all "wow, these guys must be complete badasses" and then she went to find them. Sad story |