Multi-pitch anchor building using the rope?

It would work fine on 2 points. Just stop after the 3rd clove (the one to the biner on your harness).

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, this method requires untying from the rope on a multi-pitch to continue leading. I don't like to do that, and I've heard I'm not alone. If you're untying from your figure 8, sky is pretty much the limit on how you can build your anchor with the rope.

Most people use rope anchors when they are swinging leads, in which case there is no extra work or untying. If leading all the pitches or leading in blocks it makes less sense.

jdejace wrote:Most people use rope anchors when they are swinging leads, in which case there is no extra work or untying. If leading all the pitches or leading in blocks it makes less sense.

Yep, hence my earlier post.

"Love using rope for the anchor, but keep in mind it works best if swinging leads. If you're dragging someone up a route, gets tricky trying to escape being tied in so you can lead every pitch. There may be a good method for this, but I'm not aware."

wivanoff wrote: Easy escape: If you're belaying off the "butterfly knot power point" your harness is not loaded. Lock off the belay, backup and just untie yourself. If you're belaying off your harness, add a prusik to the climber's rope & load releasable knot at the "butterfly knot power point". Transfer the load just like with a cordelette belay escape. Backup and untie yourself. If you need to rappel with the climber, you will have to rebuild the anchor using other slings/cord and transfer the load to the new anchor. Or, if really an emergency and time is of the essence and you have no other gear: escape the belay, set up your counterbalance or tandem rappel and use your belay knife to sacrifice a section of rope - leaving the rope anchor intact. You might argue that, if I have to rebuild a new anchor why not just use a cordelette to begin with? Well, that's true and up to you. But in 40 years of climbing I've never had to escape the belay in anger.

If it's a bad situation, you can always just back up the biner and chop your belay loop.

Look through Chapter 6 section 20 "Swapping Over" multipitchclimbing.com/

Don't overcomplicate or overthink this. Don't freak out about equalizing, just use your head to anticipate how your gear is loaded and how failure could occur. Its easy to guide a route using anchors built solely with a rope and using very simple knots. Your second clips in just like you did. Yep, complicated. These anchors are all from the same route that I guided and each took no more than 30 seconds to build. Speed and simplicity are your friends.

anchor1

anchor2

anchor3

Good Troll, Ddriver

ddriver wrote:Don't overcomplicate or overthink this. Don't freak out about equalizing, just use your head to anticipate how your gear is loaded and how failure could occur. Its easy to guide a route using anchors built solely with a rope and using very simple knots. Your second clips in just like you did. Yep, complicated. These anchors are all from the same route that I guided and each took no more than 30 seconds to build. Speed and simplicity are your friends.

Since you already have doubles, why not just clove each rope to one bolt? It's faster and uses less gear.

ddriver wrote:Don't overcomplicate or overthink this. Don't freak out about equalizing, just use your head to anticipate how your gear is loaded and how failure could occur. Its easy to guide a route using anchors built solely with a rope and using very simple knots. Your second clips in just like you did. Yep, complicated. These anchors are all from the same route that I guided and each took no more than 30 seconds to build. Speed and simplicity are your friends.

Weak. At least put a little effort into it...

Double bowline on a bight, and swing leads...should be the go to

I agree that a lot of people freak out too much about equalizing everything.

For ice, sandstone or crap gear, sure, equalize it. The load margin can be hard to assess, and one piece is unlikely to be a lot stronger than the others in an anchor. If one piece fails, then it's not unlikely that the other gear will fail with shock loading.

For bolts or good gear in good rock, there's a huge load margin on the individual pieces, even for peak dynamic forces. If a piece fails, it's likely because it was placed incorrectly or was compromised, and generally not because there is systematic weakness with every piece in the anchor.

I was on Johnny Vegas once, got to the anchor, cloved into one bomber bolt with a locker, and cloved into the other bomber bolt with a locker. 10 seconds after reaching the anchor, I'm off belay. The super slow party at the top said "Hmm, that looks a lot faster than a cordalette.", "Yeah, but it's not equalized", "Hmm, I guess you're right."

Ahhh ... Senseless anchor arguments !!!

Here a few ways to skin that cat

Basic "cordelette method" ... Newbies will NEVER forget how to tie it

Cordelette method

Cordelette method in practice

Two point anchor ... You can clove back to a locker or yr PAS

Two point rope anchor

Add a third point ... Note the "masterpoint" is on two pieces ... If the pieces are good im not worried one bit

Simply clove the third piece

The much disparaged brit method ... You can also use an alpine butterfly for a masterpoint and clove back to that

It allows you to make a widely spaced anchor more safely as youll munter the top piece

Place the top piece with a munter on a locker

Climb down protected by the munter clove to belay loop

Loop the second piece and clove it to yr belay loop

Do the same for the third piece ... Etc ...

As to trees simply pull a loop of rope around the tree and clove it back to a locker on yr belay loop ot PAS

;)

Excellent step-by-step illustration, bearbreeder.

Thank you for taking the time to take the photos and post the reply.

The "brit" method looks to be a quick and efficient way to extend your anchor/belay - I'll add that to the tool box.

BigFeet wrote:Excellent step-by-step illustration, bearbreeder. Thank you for taking the time to take the photos and post the reply.

No thanks needed

I caught a bit of a sniffle doing a moderate multi at sunset and rapping at night without a sweater

So i was stuck doing easy stuff and playing around at the crag today

As always find someone safe and experienced to check your setups

;)

Adam Burch wrote:Good Troll, Ddriver

Funny thing is, its not a troll. This is why I gave up on RC.com and will this site. Gotta wonder if some of you actually climb or just spend time building anchors.

These are the trolls in this thread:

cluster #2

cluster #1

I still use two or three double length runners. Bomber, simple and isn't subject to rope availability.

ddriver: I'd be willing to bet that rgold and bearbreader (the posters of the above anchor pictures) climb more than most of MP combined.

ddriver wrote: Funny thing is, its not a troll. This is why I gave up on RC.com and will this site. Gotta wonder if some of you actually climb or just spend time building anchors. These are the trolls in this thread:

Its pretty hilarious that you are "guiding" on crap anchors

And dont even recognize the danger of a biner loaded over an edge

LOL

Your "anchor"

From Petzl

csproul wrote:ddriver: I'd be willing to bet that rgold and bearbreader (the posters of the above anchor pictures) climb more than most of MP combined.

Im lazy ... I only climb if theres beer or women involved

;)

ddriver wrote: Funny thing is, its not a troll. This is why I gave up on RC.com and will this site. Gotta wonder if some of you actually climb or just spend time building anchors. These are the trolls in this thread:

Come on, ddriver. If you are going to reel in the masses, you gotta work a little harder than that. There are few things more worthless than a weak and unimaginative troll. I'll bet that even the majority of the dregs that are still on RC.com would have seen through the weak stuff you posted. Believability is the key, and subtlety is your friend. Think about it, and come back when you are ready to try again.