Dynafit vs. La Sportiva AT/ice climbing
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Skin to an ice/mixed/alpine climb and ski decend. A boot for approaching, front pointing vertical ice and down hill. What one seems to be the best? |
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Can't speak to the Spectre, but I have the spitfire which is a feature rich version of the Sideral and it's super hard to get a good crampon fit on the toe welt. I had to modify my boots to accept crampons. TLT's are much better in this regard. |
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I've found my spitfires to work fine with BD stingers and camp nanotechs. Though I have not compared the fit to TLT's |
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Tlt5's are no longer made. |
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Check with Dane but I think Dynafit worked with Grivel for crampon and climbing compatibility. |
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Speaking of Dane, I hope everything's ok with him. Cold Thistle has had very little activity since early June. Been following Dane since the start & I've never seen him go this long w/o posts ... |
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Ray Pinpillage wrote:Tlt5's are no longer made.IMHO (and a bit of Dane's;), I think the TLT6 was a step back in boot progression. I was able to score a pair of TLT5s for super cheap at geartrade.com last May, perhaps if you like the TLT5 you can still find a pair. I really like the TLT5s toe flex for the up, including technical climbing with crampons. Sure, you are always going to compromise up for down and down for up. And the TL5 is more of a up boot. You can easily modify the TLT5 set up to give it more power on the down, with very minimal compromise on the up; with booster straps, intuition alpine wrap liners and a shorter ski length. Also, Google what Trevor Hunt has to say about big mountain ski-mo set ups. Get better Dane! We love your blog and opinion! |
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I've climbed WI4 in TLT5s and TLT6s and they both worked fine for me. Like all ski boots they have hardly any sideways ankle articulation. That isn't much an issue on pure ice climbs but it's disadvantage on mixed routes. |
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How do the Scarpa F1 Evos compare anyone know? |
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We had a hard time getting my friend's Spitfires mounted. Tried Cyborgs, G20s, and Darts. A combination of the rocker and wide toe piece required some crampon modification including aftermarket bails. His boot size is large, like a 47 in mountaineering boots. |
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My wife has led WI4 in her TLT5s, and she says that for the vertical sections they were great. Due to a lack of lateral ankle flex, French technique on easy ground was basically impossible. It led to fewer sidepoints engaging and less security. |
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Dane is fine - he's too busy skiing to make blog posts! Lucky son of a gun... |
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How have people been modding spitfires for better crampon fit? |
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Jon Rhoderick wrote:How have people been modding spitfires for better crampon fit?Petzl Lynx fit without modification. |
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My friend put Tele bails on his M10s and extended the bar to the farthest hole. They fit okay now. There was no way with the stock dart or M10 bails. (Again, these are really big Spitfires) |
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Smaller boots fit crampons better...larger boots fit worse. |