East Face, Center Crack
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,081 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Aug 26, 2014 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The center crack on the east face is the obvious gnarly looking offwidth going up the center of the pinnacle as visible from Cathedral Peak.
Belay on a small 2x2' shelf a few feet below (on the south side) of the saddle at the base of the pinnacle. There are several gear options for a solid belay anchor. Step out off the ledge with a lot of air suddenly below your heels and begin to traverse up and left aiming for the short hand crack roof. Once at the small roof, continue straight up that crack all the way to the summit. The entire route overhangs about 8 feet from the base.
The crack gradually widens from 1" at the small roof to 7" at the very top. The hand and fist jams are solid and are deep in the flaring slot, while awkward, it provides good rests. The offwidth section is also rounded over and slightly flaring making it tough to get deep enough for solid arm bars, and slightly too flared for good chicken wings, making it quite relentless between rest stances. Irregularities in the width of the upper half of the offwidth make pushing a cam the whole way impractical, so I recommend two #6 cams.
Does anyone have any information on any route history?
Belay on a small 2x2' shelf a few feet below (on the south side) of the saddle at the base of the pinnacle. There are several gear options for a solid belay anchor. Step out off the ledge with a lot of air suddenly below your heels and begin to traverse up and left aiming for the short hand crack roof. Once at the small roof, continue straight up that crack all the way to the summit. The entire route overhangs about 8 feet from the base.
The crack gradually widens from 1" at the small roof to 7" at the very top. The hand and fist jams are solid and are deep in the flaring slot, while awkward, it provides good rests. The offwidth section is also rounded over and slightly flaring making it tough to get deep enough for solid arm bars, and slightly too flared for good chicken wings, making it quite relentless between rest stances. Irregularities in the width of the upper half of the offwidth make pushing a cam the whole way impractical, so I recommend two #6 cams.
Does anyone have any information on any route history?
1 Comment