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> Mustache Wall
The Toiler
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 25 votes
Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Tai DeVore, Marty Lewis - 9/11 |
Page Views: | 3,595 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on Apr 14, 2013 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A candidate for the best route on the Mustache. Three pitches of quality climbing.
P1: Start on Double Dog Dare. At the 11th bolt continue straight up instead of moving left. Good climbing in the seams with a reachy crux near the top. High quality pitch. 12a, 18 bolts.
P2: An immediate crux leads to an excellent pitch of grooves and patina. Again, good rock and good climbing. 11c, 13 bolts.
P3: More cracks/grooves but with a little less patina. A crux sequence from the hole at the end of the pitch takes one to a great belay station/ledge. 11c, 13 bolts.
Descent:
a) 3 rapps down the route.
or
b) With an 80m, go to the top of Supergrinder. There is only a few feet of rope left, knots advisable. The second rapp does not quite make the ground but deposits one on easily downclimbed terrain at the start of Supergrinder.
P1: Start on Double Dog Dare. At the 11th bolt continue straight up instead of moving left. Good climbing in the seams with a reachy crux near the top. High quality pitch. 12a, 18 bolts.
P2: An immediate crux leads to an excellent pitch of grooves and patina. Again, good rock and good climbing. 11c, 13 bolts.
P3: More cracks/grooves but with a little less patina. A crux sequence from the hole at the end of the pitch takes one to a great belay station/ledge. 11c, 13 bolts.
Descent:
a) 3 rapps down the route.
or
b) With an 80m, go to the top of Supergrinder. There is only a few feet of rope left, knots advisable. The second rapp does not quite make the ground but deposits one on easily downclimbed terrain at the start of Supergrinder.
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