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Campus Board - Max Ladders

Original Post
Ben Circello · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 95

Where is the most value - in the first hand movement or the second? e.g. Is 1-5-6 "better" than 1-4-7?

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Ben Circello wrote:Where is the most value - in the first hand movement or the second? e.g. Is 1-5-6 "better" than 1-4-7?
As always, it depends, if your goal is a route that has a move that's more like a max first move than that has the most value, if you're working a route that has multiple powerful moves in a row that mimic something more like a 1-4-7, than that's better.

Personally, I think that the 1-4-7 has more value overall, but that's probably just because it's harder for me (not that I can personally do 1-4-7), I can do a 1-5 for the first hand movement, but can only do a 1-3.5-6 for the equal interval max ladder as I like to call it.
Carlos Garcia · · Truckee, CA · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 7,047

Campusing is a general tool to improve climbing . I would not expect a high correspondence between it and specific climbing moves. I would approach valuing campusing differently. Each campus ladder move has a different difficulty. You want to systematically improve by trying the next proximal movement in difficulty.

In order to quantify the next hardest move, I use the scoring system from a campusing contest to design my workouts docs.google.com/spreadsheet… (worksheet tab).

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

Wow - I would never have guessed you could get more than fifty people to participate in a campus-board competition.

Giving points to the move sequences -- had not thought of that either.

Thanks for contributing that elevation of the game.

Ken

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i think the 2nd move is a lot harder. the first move, you are pulling off 2 hands. second move you have to pull really frickin hard with the upper hand and push with your lower hand.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

yep, and it takes a lot of speed coordination to flip that switch from your lower hand to be pushing down like a mofo, and then instantly fling it a long ways upwards and desperately latch the rung with accuracy. a lot going on in a very short amount of time.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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