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Routes in Gollum's Arch Rock
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Bikini Wax T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Facial Hair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Frigidaire T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gollum's Arch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hurlin' T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Latch Hand T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Seam-Stress T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tufa Dreams T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wrath T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | Duncan Ferguson & Dudley Chelton, 1970s |
| Page Views: | 7,488 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Apr 5, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This route is not on [Twin Owls]. It lies on [Gollum's] Rock which is directly east of Twin Owls. This is a smaller cliff about one hundred feet high. Approach as though going to Hen and Chickens Rock and when next to that cliff look east 100 yards to find an hundred foot left-arching, aesthetic crack, this is the route.
This is a great one pitch crack climb that begins with a 5.9 fist crack through a bulge then widens considerably for thirty feet. This section doesn't require any offwidth technique as there are [decent] face holds around. After the wide section, the crack narrows down through all the sizes to fingers at the end. At the end, either traverse left to a belay, or continue over a poorly protected 5.9 roof.
This is a very sustained pitch with no single crux. It is given .10a in most guides, but feels [definitely] harder.
This is a great one pitch crack climb that begins with a 5.9 fist crack through a bulge then widens considerably for thirty feet. This section doesn't require any offwidth technique as there are [decent] face holds around. After the wide section, the crack narrows down through all the sizes to fingers at the end. At the end, either traverse left to a belay, or continue over a poorly protected 5.9 roof.
This is a very sustained pitch with no single crux. It is given .10a in most guides, but feels [definitely] harder.
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