Beal Joker 9.1 after 10 trips to the crag
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Mine lasted at least two years. It outlasted four of my partners Nano's. I couldn't have been happier with it. |
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I have a 9.1mm Mammut that I love. I have been amazed with the durability. |
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I climbed with a guy who had a similar experience with the Joker. I love my mammut infinity 9.5. I found it to be super durable and it handles really well. I'm fairly big (170lbs) for a sport climber and have fallen on it a lot. Sucks about your rope though, those things aren't cheap! |
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Were you taking falls in a way that placed the rope over a rough edge or something? The sheath shouldn't be damaged like that from biners and/or belay devices after just a couple "soft" falls. And are you sure you only used it 10 times? That "undamaged" portion of the sheath looks pretty haggard to me, but I've only climbed on a Joker once before, so am not too familiar with how they wear.. |
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How careful are you with your rope side carabiners? Could happen easily if the biner was worn from being on the bolt side of a draw. |
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Do you know if the rope was contacting the cliff as you fell? Or do you believe this is just from carabiner friction? |
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I'm curious, were you falling on fixed draws with worn caribiners? In a couple of cases, people have gotten the chop. I could imagine it putting a lot of wear on a rope in less extreme cases. |
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My Joker has over a year of use with no significant wear and tear. |
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That is not a photgraph of a lightly used rope. The falls may have been soft, but some other external variable (not the quality of the rope) was a significant factor in those core shots. Rough edges, rope drag, rough carabiner . . . something. |
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Use a thicker rope |
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I had a fairly poor impression of the sheath durability of the joker I used. It went fuzzy/soft quickly with no lead falls. But it was nothing like shown here... |
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the sheath initially got a little frayed from my buddy taking on this section of rope several times (hang dogging), however the day that this happened was on a consistently overhung route on my own gear, I'm super OCD about my draws so if someone places one of my draws upside down (rope side in the bolt) I switch out the biner (which gets expensive haha)... long story short I took three falls on the same part on a virtually brand new draw with no rope drag on a rope that legitimately looks brand new throughout the middle and other end of the rope and ended up with a blown out sheath... |
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also all my draws that were on the route were 17mm or 21mm, so when I would fall the rope wasn't anywhere near the rock |