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casual route 8/23

Original Post
Caleb · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 260

I'm looking for a partner for the Casual route this Saturday. Sunday is a possibility. You need some real experience to do this so please be honest about your ability. It's a 20+ hour day. PM me if you're interested. Happy climbing!

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Ketchup - it doesn't need to be a 20+ hour day. The Casual Route is a great route - hoping you find a good partner and get up the Diamond.

Wally

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Yeah, it's more fun to mosey on up to the bivy caves the afternoon before, then wake up at zero dark thirty, climb the route and get down, then you're back to the car in time to cruise through Lyons for some gluttonous BBQ and brews at Oscar Blues.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Mike McKinnon wrote: It is 5 pitches. It is more hiking than climbing especially if you want to top out. Save yourself 3 hours and rap the route instead of taking it to the top. Sleep in the car at the trailhead Wake up at 4am Base of Diamond by 630 (sunrise) Climb N Chimmeny 1 hour Climb Casual in 4 pitches (70M rope)4 hours (conservative) Rap 2 hours Hike Out 1.5 hours 11 hours and that is being conservative.
It'd you simul to the top of the D1 pillar then you can do it in four. But that's really dependent on the party in front of you. It's conceivably broken up into as many as eight pitches (which is silly) . Regardless, even with an inefficient party in front of you, if you rap D7 then I think M McKinnon's estimate is pretty spot on.
Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,655
Mike McKinnon wrote: It is 5 pitches. It is more hiking than climbing especially if you want to top out. Save yourself 3 hours and rap the route instead of taking it to the top. Sleep in the car at the trailhead Wake up at 4am Base of Diamond by 630 (sunrise) Climb N Chimmeny 1 hour Climb Casual in 4 pitches (70M rope)4 hours (conservative) Rap 2 hours Hike Out 1.5 hours 11 hours and that is being conservative.
I respectfully disagree. While the route certainly doesn't need to take 20+ hours, 5.10 climbers on the Diamond for the first time are not going to do the Casual route in 11 hours. 11 hours might be a "conservative" estimate for 5.11/12 climbers who know the area and aren't impeded by the other (often quite slow) parties that are frequently on route.

I'd be willing to bet that of the total number of ascents the Casual Route sees, the percentage accomplished in 11 hours or less is quite small.

I also gotta recommend topping out rather than rapping if it's your first time up there.
Tommy Layback · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 85

PM sent

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,326

It took me 17hrs and 35 min car to car the first time I did it.

Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

Charles and others are right. It's a long and serious undertaking and you can't count on being fast. Here's one gumby's experience. (Casual trip report about half way down the page). And I climbed El Cap twice, so I'm not a total gumby.

mountainproject.com/v/trip-…

PS: Charles, kinda amazed you haven't unfriended me on FB. But you never comment any more, so you probably unfollowed. :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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