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Would you climb on this?

Original Post
knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

This is a 9.1 Beal Joker. It was strictly my tower rope for a while so she's been around but taken care of. Noticed this little beauty mark on her and didn't think too much of it. I usually have the motto of "should be fine" but was wondering if anyone has experience climbing on a rope with a shot like this. Cheers

pic 1

Pic B

Pic tre

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

Is it close to the end? I'd probably cut it off.

Craig Martin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 1,457

Cut it off or retire it. I wouldn't climb on that except for top roping only.

knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

Too close to the middle or I'd woulda sliced her already

Mike Collins · · Northampton, MA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

I would definitely not use that

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

should be fine is generally an ok motto, but if it were mine I'd probably go ahead and retire it..

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Even if it is safe/strong now, it will get worse very quickly with use. My guess is the sheath probably wouldn't make it through a day of cragging.

beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.

knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

What about for the occasional time that a 70m is needed and on a climb well within my ability. I guess I'm thinking of towers or multi pitch routes that the only real time I'll put any force on the rope is rappelling. How fast will the sheath wear down from rappelling and is there a fairly high risk of the sheath slipping if the rope is used primarily as a rap line?

Daniel B. · · ABQ, NM · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 10
beensandbagged wrote: If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.
beensandbagged wrote: If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.
This is so true the man said it twice.
Matt Hartman · · Leavenworth WA · Joined May 2007 · Points: 240

retire

knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

Yea 10-4. Thanks for the replies

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

If you are going to trash it I would pay for shipping and possibly more for you to chop it and send the other part. I've been looking for a length of dynamic rope but only need a couple of meters.

knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

Eli are you in Durango?

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

I'm not one for retiring things that have wear -- but a core-shot is pretty standard for retire the rope, or at least, that section of the rope.

If its the middle of a 70m -- maybe you've got a couple gym ropes out of it or something. Or maybe replace a beaten up "permanent" line with it somewhere.

Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

Cut it in half, keep for simulclimbing on low grade alpine stuff or glacier travel? 60m is a lot for that stuff.

Mr. Wonderful · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 10

Cut out the core shot, tie a knot, and with rope stretch, you still have a 70.

knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225
Mr. Wonderful wrote:Cut out the core shot, tie a knot, and with rope stretch, you still have a 70.
That's what I'm talking about
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

see the white
death's delight

view the core
climb no more

inner strand
will not stand

center cut?
save your butt

I can go on with this...

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

is your life worth less than $200?

Jacob Smith · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 230
beensandbagged wrote: If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.
This one has always bugged me. If I treated my equipment this way I would have wasted all my money on ropes, harnesses, and belay biners long ago, not to mention slings on cams, extendable draws, PASs...etc.
Most of the time it's fine. I can think of exactly two bad accidents that happened because someone used equipment that should have been retired, and both were no-brainer, what-were-they-thinking, kind of mistakes.
My personal suspicion is that this mantra is propagated by gear companies who profit from the over-caution of consumer climbers.
My life may be worth more to me than the price of a new rope every 6 months, but that doesn't mean I can afford to spend like that.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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