Would you climb on this?
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This is a 9.1 Beal Joker. It was strictly my tower rope for a while so she's been around but taken care of. Noticed this little beauty mark on her and didn't think too much of it. I usually have the motto of "should be fine" but was wondering if anyone has experience climbing on a rope with a shot like this. Cheers |
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Is it close to the end? I'd probably cut it off. |
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Cut it off or retire it. I wouldn't climb on that except for top roping only. |
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Too close to the middle or I'd woulda sliced her already |
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I would definitely not use that |
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should be fine is generally an ok motto, but if it were mine I'd probably go ahead and retire it.. |
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Even if it is safe/strong now, it will get worse very quickly with use. My guess is the sheath probably wouldn't make it through a day of cragging. |
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If you are asking questions it is time for it to go. |
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What about for the occasional time that a 70m is needed and on a climb well within my ability. I guess I'm thinking of towers or multi pitch routes that the only real time I'll put any force on the rope is rappelling. How fast will the sheath wear down from rappelling and is there a fairly high risk of the sheath slipping if the rope is used primarily as a rap line? |
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beensandbagged wrote: If you are asking questions it is time for it to go. beensandbagged wrote: If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.This is so true the man said it twice. |
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retire |
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Yea 10-4. Thanks for the replies |
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If you are going to trash it I would pay for shipping and possibly more for you to chop it and send the other part. I've been looking for a length of dynamic rope but only need a couple of meters. |
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Eli are you in Durango? |
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I'm not one for retiring things that have wear -- but a core-shot is pretty standard for retire the rope, or at least, that section of the rope. |
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Cut it in half, keep for simulclimbing on low grade alpine stuff or glacier travel? 60m is a lot for that stuff. |
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Cut out the core shot, tie a knot, and with rope stretch, you still have a 70. |
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Mr. Wonderful wrote:Cut out the core shot, tie a knot, and with rope stretch, you still have a 70.That's what I'm talking about |
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see the white |
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is your life worth less than $200? |
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beensandbagged wrote: If you are asking questions it is time for it to go.This one has always bugged me. If I treated my equipment this way I would have wasted all my money on ropes, harnesses, and belay biners long ago, not to mention slings on cams, extendable draws, PASs...etc. Most of the time it's fine. I can think of exactly two bad accidents that happened because someone used equipment that should have been retired, and both were no-brainer, what-were-they-thinking, kind of mistakes. My personal suspicion is that this mantra is propagated by gear companies who profit from the over-caution of consumer climbers. My life may be worth more to me than the price of a new rope every 6 months, but that doesn't mean I can afford to spend like that. |