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Swolen PIP Joints

namburger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 35

here is a picture from therapy, basically on splint at night, PT stresses my fingers and today they thinks that what contributes to the injury is that my forearm is too tight and that the muscle pulled down my tendons.
i tried to tell her its just my muscle is "rock hard" but she wont believe me so im now on heat therapy.
PT sucks i have to go 3 times a week and it hurts and paying 10 per session so i may be stopping soon and go to the doctor for an mri.
if any new results ill keep you guys posted.
namburger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 35

also here is my fingers fresh off therapy, straghter, more movement and less pain to move it around than before, however still not straight like normal, and i can completelymake a fist.
i have also took it easy on climbing and only been climbing 5.10 ish but still did a few v5 when i had my bouldering session last week.
really stressing my finger before and after a climbing session seems to help.



Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
namburger wrote:also here is my fingers fresh off therapy, straghter, more movement and less pain to move it around than before, however still not straight like normal, and i can completelymake a fist. i have also took it easy on climbing and only been climbing 5.10 ish but still did a few v5 when i had my bouldering session last week. really stressing my finger before and after a climbing session seems to help.
dude... u really haven't absorbed whats on this thread. You need to stop climbing for the next many months. And when you start climbing it shouldn't be more then like 5.6. Don't even try to boulder since in theory that starts at like 5.10. If you really want to ruin your climbing career you're on track.
marty funkhouser · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 20

The question you should ask before spending thousands on an mri is whether the results from the mri would change your treatment options. I seriously doubt they would, but the results might be interesting from a purely academic standpoint. I agree with the earlier poster about avoiding cortizone shots in that part of your anatomy if you want a long climbing career.

Four injured joints in two hands after the indoor climbing routine you described sounds like a tissue overuse/overload situation. The injured tissue (my guess is volar plate but it doesn't really matter) responds to stress by becoming inflamed. Things like forearm massages are going to help but in the long run you need to provide an extended period of rest followed by a gradual reintroduction of stress (with plenty of recovery) over many, many months. Those posters above who describe climbing through a pulley injury or a traumatic pip injury arent really in the same boat in regards to their activity restrictions.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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