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Shaded climbs near Estes Park

Original Post
Anthony Baraff · · Paris, France · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 2,400

I'm visiting Estes over the next week and was wondering if anyone had suggestions for areas or specific routes where I can avoid being baked on the rock. I'm interested in anything from long multi-pitch trad routes, to sport, to bouldering. I'd just like to avoid being burnt to a crisp. Any insight is welcome.

I'm staying very close to Lumpy Ridge and I've seen some comments suggesting that White Whale may be one possibility for avoiding the sun if I climb it early enough. Are there any other climbs that fit this bill?

Thanks,

Anthony

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

What sort of temps are we talking about at Lumpy this time of year?

KevinCO · · Loveland, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 60

It will cool off somewhat next week with temps in the low 70s to high 60s.
As Jeff mentioned, it can still be like in a reflector oven, so take at least 1 quart of water on the route ( and a light rain jacket.

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,800

For north-ish facing stuff

Longer-ish lengths:

Hallett Peak, ~12,000', 6-9 pitches.
Deer Mountain, north face, 9-10,000', 4-6 pitches.
Sharkstooth, NE Ridge or N face, 12,000', 4-6 pitches.
Climbs on the Diamond or Lower East Face, after noon, 4-11p, 13-14,000'.
Mt. Meeker, 5-6p, 13,000'.
Pagoda Peak, 5-8p, 13,000'.

Short routes, some in shade:

Ironclads, 5.8-5.11, 1-2p, 8500'. 4WD or clearance useful.
Thumb, Thimble, Needle on Prospect Mt., 1-2 p, 5.4-5.12, 8000'.
Lily Mountain, short sport routes, 1/2 rope, 5.6-5.10, 8500'.

There's plenty of others. These are just a few that come to mind.

dan zika · · jax wy · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

monastery faces all aspects, great rock, super place

Anthony Baraff · · Paris, France · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 2,400

Thanks everyone for your replies. So, we ended up climbing Lumpy for the mornings of the 21st-23rd. We generally hit the trailhead by 6 or so which meant we were arriving at the base of our first pitch by 7-7:30 when temps were still in the high 50s or low 60s. Day one we did Batman and Robin, day 2 we did Melvin's Wheel and the Goose and on day 3 we did White Whale. Day 2 was overcast, and Day 3 was outright cold. I think the Left Book just doesn't get any light before noon or 1, so I'd strongly recommend that to anyone looking to avoid the sun.

We usually bailed before noon and were hot hiking through the meadow on the way back to the car. That said, I think we could have easily taken advantage of the afternoons if it weren't for family commitments. I hope this is useful to someone in the future.

Anthony

Andy Casler · · Northfield, NH · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 558

Does anyone have additional recommendations for shaded shorter climbs in Estes Park Valley? Most interested in trad climbs ranging from 5.5 to mid 5.12

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,800

Lily Mt. has 3 tiers of short, shady routes that are pleasant.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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