Edelrid Mega Jul
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sanz wrote: This has definitely happened to me. The autolock on the device is good but not nearly as reliable as a grigri.It's happened to me as well. I now keep the gate of my carabiner (BD Gridlock) on the same side as my brake hand. |
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I spent some time with this guy at the Red, and I still like it. It has see shortcomings and a little learning curve, but it does what it's intended to do for me. |
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This is my favorite biner for the device: |
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I've been using the MegaJul for a couple of months now and love it. It doesn't do everything well. As others have noted, in guide mode it is too hard to pull rope through. The fact that it is going to lock off if my belayer gets knocked unconscious by a falling rock or lets go for some reason is enough reason for me to want to use it. We did some tests with one of my hefty climbing friends jumping off a top-rope with slack to simulate a trad fall and it locks off with no problem every time. It even slips just a little rope through providing some dynamics in the catch which is critical in trad. If they could refine it to work better in guide mode it would be the best thing since sticky rubber. |
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What size rope were you using |
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Moritz B. wrote:This is my favorite biner for the device: scarpa.com/edelrid/hms-stri… No unwanted rotations with that one!Tried this biner, liked the vapor lock better for feeding, but that one does seem to work best all around |
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Sam Stephens wrote:What size rope were you using9.9mm. |
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I have been using the Pirate Wire Eye, it's the same concept as the Edelrid FG. |
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Hey Brian, have you tried the MegaJul with this kind of round biner in guide mode? |
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Moritz B. wrote:Hey Brian, have you tried the MegaJul with this kind of round biner in guide mode? rei.com/product/782742/meto…Yes, I tried using a Petzl Attache (old round type)which looks very similar. |
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Hi all, |
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Boulders at Outdoor2014 - The New Edelrid Jul2: youtu.be/QJXTVhouTcM |
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I think that these assisted locking belay devices for alpine/trad use are the wave of the future. |
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Mats, |
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Kai Larson wrote:I think that these assisted locking belay devices for alpine/trad use are the wave of the future. I have to believe that the folks at Black Diamond and Petzl are both working on prototypes. They are only going to get better as competition and innovation keep pushing the performance forward.Black Diamond was working on a prototype as of last year. Haven't heard anything recently. |
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I have, for 340 meters to be exact. It locks up, but it does release fine when I use the thumb thingy. I wouldn´t say rapping on a fuzzy 11mm rope works well, but I rarely do it and the advantages outweigh the drawbacks in my opinion. I usually use a 9.8mm rope and most of the time I rap using the device in lock-up mode. |
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Mats Isaksson wrote:I have, for 340 meters to be exact. It locks up, but it does release fine when I use the thumb thingy. I wouldn´t say rapping on a fuzzy 11mm rope works well, but I rarely do it and the advantages outweigh the drawbacks in my opinion. I usually use a 9.8mm rope and most of the time I rap using the device in lock-up mode.Interesting. I was obviously holding my mouth the wrong way when I had no-release lock-ups with the biner like yours. ;-) The only way I could get controlled raps was with biners with rounded cross sections. |
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This was rapping on single rope, and in lock-up mode I had to lift the rope to make it slide through. I wouldn´t say it works ideal, but I had no problems getting down. Also, I rarely use fuzzy 11mm ropes. |
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Also: I weigh 202 Pounds + the term "fuzzy" is not clearly defined here. |
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Ah ha ... the lock ups I encountered were with two ropes through the device. I'm 165lb. A lighter weight and greater friction probably did it. |