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| Type: | Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,050 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Aug 28, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a pleasant romp up good rock at an easy grade. This route will wander up the lower-angled, left side of the SSW face/prow of Rock One. It connects nice features & can have plenty of variations at a similar grade. It has enough features and short-enough traverses to allow a shorter (6-8 year old) climber to ascend without excessive difficulty.
Note, this crag is often closed during raptor closures until July 31. Check the closures before heading here.
To find the start of the route, locate the nadir of the rock. There are 2 distinctive features that help locate the easiest start. Find a jutting prow of rock with a steep, left-facing dihedral. The start is just to the left by about 15' on a slab. Or, find a large, dead tree leaning against the lower left side of the face. The easiest start lies to the right by about 60'. Some brushy scrambling may be required to reach the start.
This route can be done in 2-5 pitches depending upon your desire & your rope length. Longer pitches will decrease your ability to communicate precisely with your partner(s). The exact line can vary immensely, but here is a line keeping with the grade on good rock:
P1. Ascend a slab angling left toward a tree (about 30 feet up), and pass the tree on the left to gain a ledge (optional belay). Here go left to the left of two cracks & ascend. Angle right up an angling crack across a slab. Climb a chimney next to a large, dead tree leaning against the rock to a notch & belay. Sling the horn and back it up with a large cam, 5.4, 160'.
P2. Follow a crack just right of a blunt arete to a step right (a reach for the young) & ascend a slab to a roof. Skirt the roof going left (optional belay). Climb a short left -facing dihedral, a short slab, & belay on a slightly-sloping ledge, 5.4, 170'.
P3. Move right into a nearly-horizontal groove to a short slab with a right-angling crack above. Ascend this to 4th class terrain & the summit, 5.4, 100'.
Descent: scramble NNE (just right of the highest line) to walking terrain between Rock One & Twin Owls. If you didn't leave gear at the base, it may be easiest to hike up & behind Twin Owls and take the trail down the East side of Twin Owls.
Addendum: those who like a well-worn path rather than a bit of adventure will not likely appreciate this route.
Note, this crag is often closed during raptor closures until July 31. Check the closures before heading here.
To find the start of the route, locate the nadir of the rock. There are 2 distinctive features that help locate the easiest start. Find a jutting prow of rock with a steep, left-facing dihedral. The start is just to the left by about 15' on a slab. Or, find a large, dead tree leaning against the lower left side of the face. The easiest start lies to the right by about 60'. Some brushy scrambling may be required to reach the start.
This route can be done in 2-5 pitches depending upon your desire & your rope length. Longer pitches will decrease your ability to communicate precisely with your partner(s). The exact line can vary immensely, but here is a line keeping with the grade on good rock:
P1. Ascend a slab angling left toward a tree (about 30 feet up), and pass the tree on the left to gain a ledge (optional belay). Here go left to the left of two cracks & ascend. Angle right up an angling crack across a slab. Climb a chimney next to a large, dead tree leaning against the rock to a notch & belay. Sling the horn and back it up with a large cam, 5.4, 160'.
P2. Follow a crack just right of a blunt arete to a step right (a reach for the young) & ascend a slab to a roof. Skirt the roof going left (optional belay). Climb a short left -facing dihedral, a short slab, & belay on a slightly-sloping ledge, 5.4, 170'.
P3. Move right into a nearly-horizontal groove to a short slab with a right-angling crack above. Ascend this to 4th class terrain & the summit, 5.4, 100'.
Descent: scramble NNE (just right of the highest line) to walking terrain between Rock One & Twin Owls. If you didn't leave gear at the base, it may be easiest to hike up & behind Twin Owls and take the trail down the East side of Twin Owls.
Addendum: those who like a well-worn path rather than a bit of adventure will not likely appreciate this route.
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