Preventing the sling from unclipping from the biner

pjheinz83 wrote:Saw this new product in another thread on MP - looks like it's designed to prevent the very issue discussed in this thread. I couldn't find any info on pricing, but it looks like they're supposed to be available now gearjunkie.com/best-in-show…

They look interesting... but you'd have to learn and practice a new clipping action to get smooth with them.

Tom-onator wrote: Uhhmm, WTF?? I would suggest further mastication when popping your Flintstones chewables.

Fred Flintstones' names was Robert Paulson

Cor wrote:Be careful with those sliders… I have been testing one out for awhile now, and the gate can stay open! If you clip something and let the gate snap shut it usually works just fine. If you slowly clip something, or another words let the locking mechanism go to the locked position before the gate closes… You have a problem. Look at the "sweet gate" photo. Hold the gate open, and take thumb off of lock. If this happens you can simply open the gate up wide, and let it snap shut. That solution always seems to work for the most part. Anyway point is: Pay attention! PS: They are real easy to clip! Rope or bolt..

The thing is that you will have to clean the sliders every so often, then they close just fine in my experience.

slim wrote:i have a couple setups that i use with locking draws. one has a locker on the bolt end and a wiregate on the rope end (for sport climbing where there is hard climbing and something going wrong would be real bad, but i need to be able to clip the rope quickly). i also have a couple sport draws with lockers on both ends for times when i can clip from an easy stance, but the climbing above is hard and something going wrong would be real bad. usually in my sport pack i have 2 of each types. i also have a couple slings set up with double lockers for the same scenario on gear routes. it works well if you can get a good stance for futzing with gear and the lockers, but if you are in the middle of a gunfight it is kind of tough.

Seems surprisingly reasonable. It's not like you're going to put a locker on every piece, but having a couple slings/draws with a locker or two for the occasion when you really, really have to trust a piece seems sensible. As long as the locker is racked "unlocked" you can just clip it like normal if you are for some reason unable to lock it and/or don't need to. Slightly more futzing than normal but probably worth the peace of mind before you cast off...

"PASSING meds" as in "GIVING meds" as in "Pass the pipe, dude"
The Grivel biner looks sweet! I am intending to give them a shot as well! I don't see a big issue clipping a rope into them at this point. Let's see what actual practice shows...

Ryan Watts wrote: Seems surprisingly reasonable. It's not like you're going to put a locker on every piece, but having a couple slings/draws with a locker or two for the occasion when you really, really have to trust a piece seems sensible. As long as the locker is racked "unlocked" you can just clip it like normal if you are for some reason unable to lock it and/or don't need to. Slightly more futzing than normal but probably worth the peace of mind before you cast off...

Lockers on long extended slings and maybe on a couple placements that precede a traverse. Definitely worth the peace of mind. This will make you think and plan out your gear placements more strategically.

Opposing wire gates (laughable), lockers, girth hitchs etc...on extended slings...really? Most of these so called solutions sound impractical, expensive/heavy, and potentially dangerous respectively. I think i'd rather take my chances with "gate flutter" while cruxing then trying to clip a sling with opposing niners; carrying lockers for all my extended slings on alpine routes would make my current credit card payment out of control and my pack really heavy - plus i'd probably hit something before i had to worry about "flutter", and girth hitching...i'd rather risk flutter and have the versatility of my slings not being hitched. What does flutter have to do with weed anyway?

wow, just scrolled thru that entire post...i feel like i got "raped on 3mm" cord...ouch.

i'm in favor of the simple:

micro-locker (as suggested by steve)--the DMM one is great, Trango superfly good, and the Edelrid slider really dialed for this application. Edelrid makes two models--i've had one of the larger ones for several months...and between the two sizes, i'd get a few small ones--perfect for "critical" pieces, but also for something like rigging a Garda, third hand when "raping", etc....

or

two traditional 'biners, gates opposed/reversed.

either of the above requires an extra couple seconds of "fiddling" and given how rarely you really have to double up, seems like all the taping, hitching, knotting, rubber-banding is maybe more trouble than it's worth.

now, back to my burned flesh....raping on a 3mm? wayyyy less comfortable than 1" webbing...but that's just me and my tender skin........

A couple of light lockers on your harness isn't much weight and seems like a pretty simple solution.

Does anyone know which route he was on? Best luck in the recovery.

Locker wrote:Pretty much routine for me is to always have at least two draws rigged with lockers.

I started carrying a double runner with lockers after seeing who thinks it's a good idea and reading up on the benefits. I could see the weight disadvantage for some. Heck, When I leading more than one pitch I'm like a playboy model.. Insanely huge rack and a fat ass. A couple lockers ain't making the crux any harder than my love affair with sugar makes it for me.

Usually carry two homemade sport draws with lockers...I don't think trango makes them anymore, but they are two normal biner size lockers. probably bought them all up.

The weight of the lockers isn't what'll make it harder, it's fiddling with the lock while cruxing that makes a simple wiregate easier to clip. But what do I know, I'm using nylon slings

Nylon slings? Jeez, it's gotta be Gluten free. What about Gluten man! Think about the Gluten next time.

cruxing.. sounds kinky!

Paul Hunnicutt wrote: Does anyone know which route he was on?

They were on a new route in the vicinity of Young, Blonde and Easy on Lower Peanuts.

eli poss wrote:The weight of the lockers isn't what'll make it harder, it's fiddling with the lock while cruxing that makes a simple wiregate easier to clip. But what do I know, I'm using nylon slings

Unlocked on the sling. Clip and quick spin. not that bad if you are below your max

Jake Jones wrote: light as a mofo.

I'm trying! Pizza for lunch probably didn't help though. I had celebrate coming back on one piece after getting stuck in the rain.

Bill, you got a free dry suit in good condition with undergarments? I bet you guys get pro deals on those. Don't spaz over your weight just eat less and drink water when you are hungry, most likely you are just thirsty. ...just saying...

Jake Jones wrote: Hahaha, dude it was just a suggestion to anyone in general. I wasn't picking on the fat kid in class :-D

Fat kid.. Hehehe, It looked like you took stuff I wrote outta context so took yours outta context too. Just talking shit and trying to be funny.

Joan Lee wrote:Bill, you got a free dry suit in good condition with undergarments? I bet you guys get pro deals on those. Don't spaz over your weight just eat less and drink water when you are hungry, most likely you are just thirsty. ...just saying...

Are you asking me for a suit and fleece onesy? Idk, I might get banned from MP for being nice to you. Haha.. Why a dry suit anyway? I like a 5mm wetsuit with a good pair of gloves, hood and gloves in saltwater that's above 45. You're not a boat anchor and you're warm. Even if we had an old suit i doubt you would want it. We do more diving in wastewater treatment plants than anything. The only deals we get are from buying from the same shop.

Nobody's worried about their fat ass here. Just talking shit and trying to be funny.

We are heading to Seattle for winter. I'm talking 40 ' s . My wetsuit is not gonna cut it. I would not want a toxic waste suit of course. Although if you can get your hands on one of the Vikings that the forensic police use I would totally dig it. A clean one of courpse. ;)