All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > N Early Winter Spire

The West Face

Name: The West Face
Rating: 3.8

5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in North Early Winter Spire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chockstone Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow
	Early Winter Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M4+ A1
	Flycatcher Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Labor Pains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	West Face, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Fred Becky and Dave Beckstad, 1965 FFA: Steve Risse and Dave Tower, 1985
Page Views:	24,125 total · 112/month
Shared By:	Ian Wolfe on Aug 3, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted Details

Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.

Description

This and the neighboring Northwest Corner Route are two of the finest alpine rock climbs I have had the pleasure to yet accomplish. Great movement, committing moves, huge exposure, beautiful position: some of the best climbs in the Washington Pass area.

P1: The West Face shares its first pitch with the Northwest Corner, a somewhat dirty face up to a chimney with trees above (5.8). From here, move the belay up 3rd class terrain to a huge sandy ledge at the base of a large corner, the base of the second pitch.

P2: Climb this corner on the left side (5.8+) 50 feet to a good belay ledge. Continue up this corner (5.7), step left and and lieback up a 5" flake (5.8) until you can stand and put in some pro. Continue past a horn with lots of slings around it and undercling right, past a bolt, below the small roof (5.9).

P3 (or P4 if P2 broken up): The crux pitch (5.11-) begins at the end of the undercling, so get psyched. Climb the thin (!) crack up and a little left until it eases up and you can step left into the next crack system. Build a belay here (~40 feet up) or continue up another thin finger crack (5.10c) until it opens up to 2" and eases off to 5.8. A few moves across the slab below a bolt bring you to an easier crack system. Finish up the cracks and then run across easy ground to the summit. Enjoy the views of North Early Winter Spire, Liberty Bell, and the Wine Spires!

The original descent is down and (skier's) left of the summit and descends into the notch between North and South Early Winter Spire. Three single rope raps bring you down to the notch (often snow-covered), another gets you off the large chockstone (a fun, free-hanging rappel), and some scrambling and downclimbing (or a short 30 foot rap) get you back on the ground.

A newer descent starts about 15' climber's right of the end of the finishing jams.

Location

Look for the dirty cracks leading to a tree-topped chimney left of center as you approach the base of the tower.

Protection

Rock rack up to 3". The crux pitch and the 5.10 above it eat small stoppers like candy, but if 5.11 is near your leading limit, consider bringing a set of micro cams so that you can just plug and go.