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Crack of Earthly Delights
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 4 from 8
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Routes in Bartizan Wall
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Crack of Earthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elrod's Epic T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kevizan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Naked Rib, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Storming the Castle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Window on the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Black, Pete Delannoy, John Matteson 7-3-80 |
| Page Views: | 1,628 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hirsch on Aug 25, 2013 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Excellent corner pitch followed by a very exposed summit finish. Absolute must do! Pitch 1 (5.9 135') Climb up the steep right facing corner pulling a few strenuous laybacks early on, then fun cruiser stemming on big feet and plenty of patina jugs. Once the corner fades, traverse out left across flakes up into the saddle to find the anchors above on a separate formation. Pitch 2 (5.8R 75') Head directly up rib past one old bolt to the top. Bring small (Rp's) gear to supplement. 2nd pitch anchor needs to be replaced (as of 8-24-13). I would recommend a needles style rap.
Location
On the left side of Bartizan Wall find the huge chimney, 'Terror-Cracktyl', Earthly Delights is the obvious right facing/leaning corner 20' left of that. Best to gain belay ledge by scrambling, 4th/5th class, from the SW gully. Either rap from 1st pitch anchors (double rope rap) or walk off the back.
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