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Mammut Dyneema 8mm contact slings safe for anchor cleaning?

LEG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0
I prefer to attach to the belay loop when doing single pitch and I girth hitch it through the tie in points when doing multi pitch.

not sure i understand what the difference is?
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
cdec wrote:^^^ OP asked, that's the answer. Sorry if it makes you sleepy.
People who are full of crap usually do make me sleepy.
coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

thanks bearbreeder for clarifying that. couple quick points:

always be wary of somebody overly certain...

2nd point/thought/question/concern: i avoid girth-hitching dyneema in general, but if i need to thru my harness, i do it thru my belay loop....my thinking being: it cinches down and stays put....if it's girth'd around my tie-in points, it tends to loosen, then if it's loaded quickly, i'm worried about the potential to melt itself due to friction when cinching down. i raised this issue with the AMGA technical director and he wasn't aware of any research on this specific scenario.

to the OP's original point, though...sounds like a nylon PAS might be what you're looking for. strong, adjustable, has several different applications: rappelling, anchoring, tyroleans, etc....

cool man, good luck....RC

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

"Thank you for contacting us directly. The internet gear forums unfortunately disseminate massive quantities of inaccurate information. Always contact the OEM for proper use instructions."

Best regards,

Pat Carr
Metolius Customer Service

Interesting.

On Metolius' own site, written in the instruction manual, under the English section, under last paragraph Alpine PAS, it specifically states to use the tie in points - nothing about the belay loop. Is Metolius going to edit the manual to account for this statement made by a representative of the company?

User instruction number 1 was my reasoning to use that method specifically.

Edit to add:
Everyone's risk tolerance is different. The belay loop will work for the OP's objective, but I try to stick to what the manufacturer suggests.

metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/PA…

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Putting this together while ^^^^^ got posted

From the instruction manual for Metolius Harnesses
"Tying in
TIE IN TO THE HARNESS EXACTLY AS SHOWN (fig. 10). FAILURE TO TIE IN CORRECTLY CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH! Make sure to run the rope through both the waist-belt and the leg-loop tie-in points. The rope should pass through the same points as the belay/rappel loop(s). Never tie in to the belay/rappel loop(s) itself or a locking carabiner."

And from the instructions for the PAS

USE:
1. Girth hitch the longest loop through your harness tie-in points.

Like the previous poster I'd probably go with the instructions that metolius sends out with every single PAS and Harness they make rather than an email from customer service.

While it was also "perfectly fine" to teather with a daisy, sport belay with a figure 8 and improvise harnesses out of webbing some have learned that there is a better way.

So to those who place the bar at "perfectly fine" enjoy stepping over it, I'm going climbing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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