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Best Books for Anchors? (FOH or How to Climb)

Original Post
Antonio Caligiuri · · Bishop, CA · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 66

I'm looking to get into trad climbing in the next year. Basically as soon as I can find a good mentor. I know that nothing can take the place of experience, but I'd like to be as well-versed as possible on the information side of placing gear and building anchors. That being said I'm looking for suggestions on the best literature on the subject. I've always heard that Freedom of the Hills has been the long-standing "bible," but it also seems like more and more people are recommending the How to Climb series ("Trad Climber's Bible" and "Climbing Anchors") by John Long. Which of these books should I go to for the most comprehensive information? Should I just read all three? Other suggestions?

Thanks, Antonio

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Craig Luebben's is my favorite, and I own all 3.

You can't go wrong with any of those, but my overall preference on quality and presentation is Craig's.

amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-An…

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills is a great book, but it's a little vague on pure rock climbing anchors (because there is so much ground to cover in a mountaineering book, aside from rock climbing).

Buy it and read it, it's awesome if you have any interest in the other stuff, but you'll want another.

I've read the old John Long anchors book, but honestly, Luebben is better. I'd probably go with his stuff.

The books are great: I taught myself that way. But you have to practice what they describe outside, eventually. Start on the ground: find a cliff somewhere and build lots of anchors right next to the earth, to supplement your reading.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Although not a beginner's book,
amazon.com/High-Advanced-Mu…

covers stuff that other books don't. Not how to put cams in, but how to connect them together is covered in great detail in the supporting web site (which was a not-for-profit community effort and is continuing to grow as people request content and I have time to update it)

Sorry about the spelling etc.in the book - this will be solved at some point.

Wyatt H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 6

Another vote for Leubben's. Very comprehensive and has awesome suggestions to practice each skill. Very good for the beginner.

whitewalls · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 146
amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-…

Pretty much the bible for learning here in the UK.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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