How to spend a week in Eastern Sierra?

We are visiting California for a climbing trip. Unfortunately we only have a week (10 days including travel) and we're going to try and cram a lot of climbing in.

The plan originally is to go to the Needles/Kern River and climb for 4 days there, then drive up to Mammoth Lake to do Mt. Dana, followed by cragging in Tuolumne. But reading all the awesome places from the Needles up to Tuolumne it seems like it would be a shame if not spend some time in Bishop, Whitney Portal, Owens River Gorge, and Mammoth Lake area as well.

So now I think we should cut our Needles trip to 2 days, followed by Whitney Portal, Bishop/Owens River, and Mammoth Lake area? I have climbed in Tuolumne before. While good, I would like to check out new places, plan for future trips, etc. :).

Is this entirely too much driving and not enough climbing? Should we stay put in one area?

Is there a guidebook (preferably just one) to cover such a wide area? Is California Road Trip: A Climber's Guide a good overview but with enough details or would I be better served by one book for a specific area?

Routes and itinerary suggestions welcome. We're 5.10a/b climbers. :)

Sounds like you already have a pretty good idea of the areas on the 395 corridor.
There is really so much to climb that it's hard to cover it all.

Owens River Gorge is going to be pretty hot until some time in September. That said, I was there last month (not planned) when a storm was brewing to the north, and temps were perfectly manageable in the shade. It's the best sport climbing crag in the state, so if you can avoid the heat, it's definitely worth checking out. If you are solid at 5.10b sport climbing there is plenty to do in The Gorge. Possibilities really open up at the 10+/11 level.

If you're comfortable on 10- trad, climb the West Face of Cardinal Pinnacle. GREAT 4 pitch route.

Pine Creek Canyon is the popular summer crag, but you really want to be a 5.11 climber to head there.

Clark Canyon has the best easy sport climbing (5.7 - 9) and some good 10s as well, but you'll need 4WD to get there. It's covered in the out of print Mammoth Area Climbs book. New one is coming out soon.

Regarding guide books, just get the Maximums Press Books. They publish the ORG book, Bishop Area Climbs, and the (out of print) mammoth area climbs.

Hope that helps some, this is not an easy question. The possibilities are limitless!!

Since you're asking for opinions .... I's skip Owens River Gorge completely , skip Clark Canyon . If I was flying 6,000 miles to CA Sierra Nevada I'd do :

3rd pillar of Dana , Cathedral Peak , Mathes Crest , Mt. Conness ridges , and crag in Tuolumne for a few days , maybe Yosemite Valley for a day or two , it's only the most iconic climbing venue on planet earth (maybe you've been there though ) If you have time left over , another Sierra peak / backpacking trip like Clyde Minaret , something on Mt. Russel / Mt. Whitney , try to get into the backcountry ...

best of luck .

Echoing Vincent: On our recent trip, we did 3rd pillar, cathedral, cragging in tuolumne, and the incredible hulk. Interspersed with that were trips to the Mobil, the hot springs, and hanging out in the Valley. That was for about 8 days, and it was just about perfect--3 bigger climbs, some rest days, and plenty of gaping at the amazing scenery.

Thanks to all the replies. I forgot to mention that I have climbed a few times in Yosemite and Tuolumne and I'm really interested to check out other climbing in the Sierras. We did not originally make the Hulk an objective because of the hike and the time it will take to get there. Day cragging, short approach/descent, and a guide will make the most of our time.

I'm not opposed to doing more stuff in Tuolumne/Valley but isn't the Valley still too hot in late August? I'm not really interested in doing Cathedral because it's so crowded. I don't really want to push grades but at the same time want to keep the routes interesting and exciting at the 5.10a/b range.

Really interested in the options available in Pine Creek and Whitney Portal. Is the rock quality good and are there up-to-date guides for either area?

O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote:Thanks to all the replies. I forgot to mention that I have climbed a few times in Yosemite and Tuolumne and I'm really interested to check out other climbing in the Sierras. We did not originally make the Hulk an objective because of the hike and the time it will take to get there. Day cragging, short approach/descent, and a guide will make the most of our time. I'm not opposed to doing more stuff in Tuolumne/Valley but isn't the Valley still too hot in late August? I'm not really interested in doing Cathedral because it's so crowded. I don't really want to push grades but at the same time want to keep the routes interesting and exciting at the 5.10a/b range. Really interested in the options available in Pine Creek and Whitney Portal. Is the rock quality good and are there up-to-date guides for either area?

Both Whitney Portal and Pine Creek climbing are covered in this guidebook:

wolverinepublishing.com/bis…

And the rock is stellar.

FrankPS wrote: Both Whitney Portal and Pine Creek climbing are covered in this guidebook: wolverinepublishing.com/bis… And the rock is stellar.

Great info! Thanks Frank!

Go to the Needles, the Hulk and Tuolumne. Don't waste your time with Pine Creek, Clark, Whitney Portal and others. They are not destination worthy zones... You will run out of routes quickly at the needles at your grade. Tuolumne has endless easier routes that are high quality. Also remember is probably like a solid 7 hr drive between the Needles and Tuolumne....

Needles...then, check out the new stuff in Sequoia, search out Santa Cruz domes, then Courtwright, then Shuteye.

The westside.... has killer climbing also.

just saying.

The last two responses. I think your earlier instincts were right: the Needles, Tuolumne and the Hulk. Many people have said that the routes they've climbed at the Needles are the best routes they've done anywhere at that grade: Igor Unchained, Thin Ice, Airy Interlude, Anti-Jello Crack, White Punks on Dope. All stellar routes. You could kill a week there easy but the hike in an out every day will wear on you after a while.

O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote:Day cragging, short approach/descent, and a guide will make the most of our time.

You can easily spend days at the Needles and not run out of things to climb. For cragging on the east side I really enjoyed Patricia Bowl, north facing, short approach (by sierra standard), and awesome single/multi-pitch crack climbing! It's covered in the Mammoth area guide book.

agree with fat dad the hike to alot of the alpine/high sierra stuff will warrant some sort of rest. Also, unless you are super fit, some stuff like the hulk needs to have a camp at the hulk either after the climb or before the climb or both. But i would second the whitney portal area the rock is huge and there is a bunch of good quality stuff with light approaches and alpine feel. If you plan on coming back to the area the bishop area climbs guide book by croft and lewis is very good for most lower altitude stuff from whitney portal to bishop, to include bouldering.

Vincent has good advice after living in mammoth for six years i say skip owens gorge completly. Dana is a cool spring ski decent thats about it. My favorite place to climb around mammoth is in the lakes basin the dike wall is sick. Some stuff in rock creek around the gong show is stellar and of course everything in tulomne. if the weather is not good i.e thunderstorms / rain . Clark canyon holds more sun. And is lower elevation you dont need a 4x4 just anything with atleast a subaru clearance and a small amount of prowess. In the high country... Coness,cathedral,fairview dome(regular route). Hope that helps . Rex

rex parker wrote:Vincent has good advice after living in mammoth for six years i say skip owens gorge completly. Dana is a cool spring ski decent thats about it. My favorite place to climb around mammoth is in the lakes basin the dike wall is sick. Some stuff in rock creek around the gong show is stellar and of course everything in tulomne. if the weather is not good i.e thunderstorms / rain . Clark canyon holds more sun. And is lower elevation you dont need a 4x4 just anything with atleast a subaru clearance and a small amount of prowess. In the high country... Coness,cathedral,fairview dome(regular route). Hope that helps . Rex

I find it sort of funny that people ether love or hate the ORG....... just an observation.

O.L.D.S.A.G. wherever you go, enjoy the fine climbing our beautiful state has to offer.

Guy Keesee wrote: I find it sort of funny that people ether love or hate the ORG.......

Just a matter of taste I guess. If you like clipping bolts and pulling steep moves then ORG is good. If you like clean cracks that protect well with gear.. then yeah.

Nothing but good suggestions in this thread. The only problem is not a long enough time frame to climb it all!