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North Face
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.1 from 96 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Tim Kelley, Dick McGowan 1954 |
Page Views: | 6,667 total · 56/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Nash on Jul 6, 2014 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
P1: Crux of the route is right off the ground in an awkward rightward trending handcrack. Once through it, the climbing eases. Pick you way up the easiest options to a large belay block slung with tat and a rap anchor (visible from the base of the climb). 5.7 120'
P2: Initially climb a few moves right of the belay, then head back left up and over some more blocky (and mossy) terrain. Meander your way back and forth climbing the path of least resistance, eventually trending farther right. Belay at the notch between the true summit and the west summit (there is a rap anchor here as well). 5.7 80'
P3: If you are comfortable, unrope for this pitch and scramble to the true summit along the ridge crest. There may be one 5.easy move on it, but it's mostly 4th class. If you choose to stay roped, leave the gear in place in order to "re-lead" the pitch on the descent, as you cannot rap a traverse.
P2: Initially climb a few moves right of the belay, then head back left up and over some more blocky (and mossy) terrain. Meander your way back and forth climbing the path of least resistance, eventually trending farther right. Belay at the notch between the true summit and the west summit (there is a rap anchor here as well). 5.7 80'
P3: If you are comfortable, unrope for this pitch and scramble to the true summit along the ridge crest. There may be one 5.easy move on it, but it's mostly 4th class. If you choose to stay roped, leave the gear in place in order to "re-lead" the pitch on the descent, as you cannot rap a traverse.
Location
Approach from Blue Lake TH as for Liberty Bell/Concord Tower, but trend left and ascend the gully between Lexington and Concord Towers. Route should be pretty obvious from here.
The other approach is to climb up and over Concord Tower from the north, then rap into the Concord-Lexington Notch on Concord's south face. This is part of the Liberty Group Traverse (all 5 spires in one day), or a good option of the routes over on Liberty Bell are congested.
The other approach is to climb up and over Concord Tower from the north, then rap into the Concord-Lexington Notch on Concord's south face. This is part of the Liberty Group Traverse (all 5 spires in one day), or a good option of the routes over on Liberty Bell are congested.
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