Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Bernard Gillett |
Page Views: | 737 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Jul 31, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This is a short but sweet line on the right side of the crag. As with the other lines here, this one needs to clean up a tad, but it's quality!
[Beta Warning...Don't read below if you're an onsight stickler.]
Begin at a medium pine tree next to the cliff. Make easy moves up into the crack and place some pro. Now make thinner moves right, following the crack, to a marginal rest and some good gear.
Now tackle the thin crack and hollow flake, placing passive gear only, for a couple moves up to a detached (but solid) flake. This lower half is exciting, the mental crux of the route. Surmount the flake and establish yourself on some small but good feet and clip the bolt. The crack moves are over. Make the crux move and finish at the anchor. Too fun!
[Beta Warning...Don't read below if you're an onsight stickler.]
Begin at a medium pine tree next to the cliff. Make easy moves up into the crack and place some pro. Now make thinner moves right, following the crack, to a marginal rest and some good gear.
Now tackle the thin crack and hollow flake, placing passive gear only, for a couple moves up to a detached (but solid) flake. This lower half is exciting, the mental crux of the route. Surmount the flake and establish yourself on some small but good feet and clip the bolt. The crack moves are over. Make the crux move and finish at the anchor. Too fun!
Location
This is the rightmost line on the crag. It has a bolted anchor. A single bolt is visible from the base.
Protection
Standard rack with emphasis on small nuts/RPs. No need for anything bigger than a #0.75 Camalot, if that.
There is a bolt at the 10b technical crux, but the mental crux, and the PG-13 rating, come from the first part of the route: A solid 5.9 thin crack then flake that is hollow and at times detached.
Placing RPs in this crack was exciting, but the placements are good...assuming the flake doesn't fail. Recommend using mostly passive pro.
There is a bolt at the 10b technical crux, but the mental crux, and the PG-13 rating, come from the first part of the route: A solid 5.9 thin crack then flake that is hollow and at times detached.
Placing RPs in this crack was exciting, but the placements are good...assuming the flake doesn't fail. Recommend using mostly passive pro.
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