Bolt cutter in Central Mass.

Brian wrote: There is not much that can be done to Ken for chopping bolts because his probation is up

Isn't he still on a 'no trespassing' notice for the privately owned crags like Farley and Rose Ledge?

Yet another sidelined post. Let's move te bolting ethics to another thread and get back to talking about the bolt chopper. His name was Robert Paulson.

^ Nice fight club reference

zswan wrote: Isn't he still on a 'no trespassing' notice for the privately owned crags like Farley and Rose Ledge?

Yes, I believe that the WMCC has a no trespassing order against Nichols for Farley. I don't know if there is one for Rose Ledge but I would doubt it because there are no bolts. The no trespassing order doesn't affect him at High Rocks where the chopping occurred or anywhere else.

Brian wrote: I don't know if there is one for Rose Ledge but I would doubt it because there are no bolts.

There are permanent anchors on some of the more popular routes, due to the damage (or risk) from slinging trees or sketchy boulders.

Rose ledge is owned by first light and Power as part of Northfield Mountain. They use the mountain to generate electricity during peak usage.
They have to leave parts of the mountain open for recreation but, as far as I know, they, don't have an opinion on climbing.
Knowing that, I'd guess he's not trespassed from there. However, it's a popular crag and Ken is not a popular guy so he slithers into lesser known crags mid-week when there's no one around.

In Massachusetts, trespassing is only arrestable in the presence of the police, good luck getting one to walk in there for a trespasser who's likely to pay a $50 fine.

Word is the 9 Wall (Feather Ledges)'s bolts were chopped (rather smashed) over and left as an unsightly mess in the last few days... This is the second wall smashed in the last year or two in CT and the second wall in the last few weeks in CT and MA to be smashed.

If folks see any suspicious activity or cars parked in the Chatfield climbers lot after dark it would make sense to take down car info and have a look around with a camera in hand.

If you or someone you know, knows who did this I'm asking for your help. There's what I would consider a truce right now in the state and this action puts a lot of that peace in danger. Maybe this person didn't know about this or maybe they thought they were making a statement and it would be 'cool'... I don't know really but, this person should be talked with ASAP unless of course it's Ken in which case Armageddon is likely just around the corner.

Ultimately neither the rock nor the climbing community will benefit and I fear history will repeat itself. That means we'll be losing not only some sport/mixed routes but some classic trad routes as well.

That's too bad.

I climb a lot on weekdays during the day and have been keeping my eyes open. At least here, I think it's happening weekdays during the mornings or early afternoons when most normal people, besides myself and Ken are working.

High rock was hit during the week. Since then, Ive been checking there several times a week, walking my dogs.
I'm not sure what time of day Ross was chopped.

Dont know if its relevant but bolts have been chopped on a small obscure crag in southern NH. They were on some controversial retro bolted routes.

It probably depends where in NH, I could see that being KN or one of his mindless minions.... swanzy NH isn't too far from Farley and he used to chop bolts at Farley until he was banned from there.
I've been to Swanzy once but not familiar with southern NH climbing. Swanzy was nice... Fun jeep ride in.

I don't think the NH stuff had any relation to the chopping in Mass. Quite different situation

M Sprague wrote:I don't think the NH stuff had any relation to the chopping in Mass. Quite different situation

That would by my suspicion as well...

I dont think it was related but you nver know. All i know is I wasnt too happy to go ot for a couple of quick sport climbs after work and found that the bolts were gone! Luckily i had a little bit of gear so I was able to scramble to the top and get lowered off the top to get down to the anchors to set up a top rope.

It's time for a cockoff. Post pics or GTFO

Where in southern NH are you referring to Travis? I'm sure others in the local climbing community would like to know. I've not been to some of the "southern NH crags" since early in the season - so this info might help others know what they're getting into if headed out to climb. Thanks.

Mark NH wrote:Where in southern NH are you referring to Travis? I'm sure others in the local climbing community would like to know. I've not been to some of the "southern NH crags" since early in the season - so this info might help others know what they're getting into if headed out to climb. Thanks.

I'd like to know too....

The Dump is where i am referring to. The Hang and Zach Attack have both been chopped. They left the anchors there. 5th of November is still bolted but i bet it will be gone soon seeing the other got chopped. This area is a listed in the old guide as no bolts or pins allowed.

Being from England I don't really know the full history of Crazy Ken maybe someone should break a few of his fingers on a regular basis so he wouldn't be able to chop bolts. As for ragged mountain if someone would allow it I will go and put the stakes in myself even dig holes and pour concrete for some of them, whatever and while I was at it I might as well throw in a few trees. I'm not joking I like climbing at Ragged and I think it would do the place good as for replacing some of the old fixed gear? Well I wouldn't want to go THERE!

If only common sense was the norm in ct nic the Brit, if only...