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Peanut Gallery Flake
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 34
votes
Routes in The Prow Area
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Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Faux Pas Arete, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Liquid Sky T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Peanut Gallery Flake T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Worm Drive S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | FA Lead Ken Sims 1978 (? No follower?) FA Top Rope Henry Barber 1973 - see History |
| Page Views: | 9,827 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Mar 24, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This route sees lots of toprope traffic but relatively few lead ascents. The technical crux happens early on in the form of a wide undercling flake. This saps your energy so the rest of the route you are just trying to fight the pump. There is a great variety of climbing on Peanut Gallery Flake from wide crack to fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, and back to wide, and squeeze chimney to the top.
If you like wide crack climbing this is a must do.
If you like wide crack climbing this is a must do.
Location
This feature is obvious from the ground. Looking up at The Prow you will see the flake off to the right above "The Big Flush".
From the tourist overlook, find the bolt anchor on the other side of the fence. You can set up a TR off of the anchor. If you are a brave soul who wants to lead it, then rap down in to the Big Flush belay. Belay from the pine tree or the bolt anchor.
From the tourist overlook, find the bolt anchor on the other side of the fence. You can set up a TR off of the anchor. If you are a brave soul who wants to lead it, then rap down in to the Big Flush belay. Belay from the pine tree or the bolt anchor.
History
After many trys by various climbers, Henry Barber first climbed the route on top rope in 1973. Five years later ( 1978) the first lead of the route was done by Ken Sims. No big cams in those days, so protection was with big hexentrics.
Somehow Webster implied that Mack Johnson was the belayer and follower for Ken’s ascent, but in a communication from Mack in Oct 2021 he states that he “ just top roped it a few years later.”
R Hall NH Admin 10/11/21
Photos
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