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Favorite crack shoes... revive

Original Post
D Graham · · Washington, DC · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 972

I saw a thread of this topic that was a few years old, times have changed and so has the shoe selection. So what is your favorite crack shoe and why?

Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 95

5.10 copperhead, 5.10 piton, both long dead

that overtoe rubber is pretty dang sweet for comfort and gripitude in handcracks and larger.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Tc pro for granite, moc for sandstone.

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

Solutions... end of discussion

D Graham · · Washington, DC · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 972

^joking?

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

For thin..boreal Ninja's BITD no question and for the rest, the long dead boreal Vector..although my Acopas are a close second

mac345 · · Reno, Nv · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

evolv astromans for anything that is larger than your fingers, but does well in fingers depending on how you fit them. got to protect those ankles. For those that the tc pros are to narrow

Taylor J · · Taos NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 390

Anasazi mocs

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

The old blue kaukulators are still hard to beat. The TC pros don't have that nice swath of rubber over the second knuckle of the toes.
I suppose since those went out of print for about 16+ years now (they had those second-rate brown ones for a bit), and my last pair was worn and resoled so many times as to be 2 full sizes larger, and soft besides, that I have to call for an updated alternative, right?

I have to say - the Mythos had the same toes, which is what mattered in thin cracks. Too bad the laces get chewed up, and the ankles are not protective. Can't do anything about the former - but as for the latter- wear an ankle brace or put a few laps of tape on the ankle to simulate a high-top and not grind the ankle bones.

You still want something stiffer for wider cracks. The TC pro is not bad there, but not ideal.

Longer ago and further away, I might have mentioned the 5.10 lynx as an excellent thin crack shoe, but that was 24 years ago... nonsuch around these days.

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

LS Gandas for fists and up.

T Howes · · Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

supermocc, resoled with thicker rubber of course.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
T Howes wrote:supermocc, resoled with thicker rubber of course.
Yep, for thin cracks nothing better.

Wider; TC pros. Once you get into fists and OW the ankle bones are much happier being covered
Brock · · Co Springs · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 30

Another vote for the Moccasym

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30
david Graham wrote:has anyone tried the new anasazi pinks for cracks? I know they're kinda intended for micro edging but i hear back in the day they made awesome trad shoes as well.
I had the verde, which is suppose to be pretty similar to the pinks, being in the same Anasazi line and all. I liked it as a crack shoe, although I found the laces got worn down from the jams. I still think a slipper might be best for not-too-wide cracks.

I have a pair of stonelands. Haven't tried them out on cracks yet but we will see :)
good pro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

Tony B knows what a good shoe is all about I also have a pair of blue Kaukulaters They are the penultimate shoes. Mythos Tc pro sub par imitations of a great shoe

D Graham · · Washington, DC · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 972
Jason Todd wrote:LS Gandas for fists and up.
Dude! that's a $250 pair of approach shoe! WTF? id din't know shoes could cost that much.
Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114
david Graham wrote: Dude! that's a $250 pair of approach shoe! WTF? id din't know shoes could cost that much.
You can usually find them cheaper. Depending on how you size them they are either a climbing shoe you can approach in, or an approach shoe you can actually climb in. They are the shizzle for the 3-4 (and up) size crack due to their lateral stiffness. A bonus is they are resoleable, making them not quite so expensive in the long haul.
Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Mocs for .75 and up. Stonelands are amazing for thin cracks on all types of rock. The toe box is wider but thinner in profile. Perfect for anything from rattly off fingers to micro edges.

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30
DoNstamos wrote:Mocs for .75 and up. Stonelands are amazing for thin cracks on all types of rock. The toe box is wider but thinner in profile. Perfect for anything from rattly off fingers to micro edges.
I'm beginning to really like the slippers. They do fine on sport routes too. Too bad 5.10 discontinued them. Why do they do that? They come out with a product for one season and then it's discontinued. Supermoccs, copperheads, grandstones...
Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Don't forget about the 5.10 wrench :(

runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30
DoNstamos wrote:Don't forget about the 5.10 wrench :(
Yes, thank you. I was trying to remember name of the shoe that looked like a ballerina shoe.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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