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Why do what you enjoy when you could be doing what I enjoy

Original Post
Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 605

I recently came across this post.

bouldering

It's a very strong boulderer/sport climber doing what they enjoy the most, who also most certainly traveled across the country specifically to climb those boulder problems. Then a fellow who goes by the handle draketw, chimes in with "Why boulder in the park!? So many classic alpine climbs!". Which I cant help but read as "Why in the world would you be playing on those little rocks, you could be up in the alpine doing what I enjoy!". Maybe Galina does in fact enjoy alpine climbing and Im wrong, but it's unlikely.

I get these comments a lot. "oh boy, we have to get you on ___ climb" or "why dont you climb gear more often?". "oh, you're going there? it's prime season in the Tanks". I see it as well meaning, I interpret it as "__ climbing is the best, why would you do anything else?" .

I for one am thankful we operate in a multifaceted sport/hobby/lifestyle. Not for just the crowd dispersion, but because I can find an aspect that suits my personality or needs. For instance, I spend untold hours reading documentation and writing code, because of that my interface with others is somewhat limited. So, your overcrowded crag becomes my social environment. I can see the need for solitude from the other perspective and I respect that. Then on the physical l am a powerful climber, but not so much so that I cannot find limit movement on routes. While at the same time Im pretty dam lazy. Id say that these two traits put me square in the sport climber camp. Tho that 's not to say I dont plug gear(poorly) on occasion or boulder.

Anyhow, I just hope that more people will understand that others derive enjoyment in different ways.

JFK · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 5

Sounds like you sport climb too much and should get on some more multi-pitch.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Ryan, Don't worry you are special. You are an amazing person. You provide value to the world through your 5.14a sends.

Let me know if you need more attention. . .at least on the internet since you're a dick in real life.

Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643

Even if poorly worded, I imagine that most of these types of comments are well-intentioned. Most people will stick to the style of climbing that they were first introduced to, unless someone helps him/her break out of his/her comfort zone.

If some recommends something to you, chances are they are familiar enough with you to think that YOU would like it.

Alpine climbing, in particular, requires a large initial investment in time and money and it is not highly visible to the public or even most of the climbing community. So, I will occasionally go out of my way to recommend alpine climbing (especially when I need a partner).

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

(cue analogy about jerking off in a whorehouse)

Andy Nelson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 336

Before I moved to CO, my buddy who had lived out in here for a few years before me, said in response to my interest in alpine climbing and why he didn't do much of it, "Its just so much...work"

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Karl Henize wrote:Even if poorly worded, I imagine that most of these types of comments are well-intentioned. Most people will stick to the style of climbing that they were first introduced to, unless someone helps him/her break out of his/her comfort zone.
I wholeheartedly disagree with this--and side with Palo on this one. There is a certain arrogance to the assumption of "You probably only like that type of climbing because you haven't yet been properly introduced to my style of climbing." It is, however, a fairly common attitude, especially from the trad/alpine crowd when addressing those who prefer sport climbing or bouldering. It is also frequently inaccurate. There are plenty of dedicated sport climbers and/or boulderers out there who were brought up in the world of trad/alpine/ice/etc, and even became quite accomplished in those disciplines, but now have migrated toward sport/bouldering because they find that those disciplines suit them better. I would count myself in this category (former crusty trad climber, now almost entirely a sport climber...I like it better). So next time you encounter someone who enjoys a different aspect of climbing than you do, don't rush to assume that "they just don't know better yet."

That aside, nice post, Palo. I particularly like your description of the appeal of the "crowded" (read: fun and social) sport crag.
J Q · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 50

Well stated Ryan.

To answer your question, have you considered the machismo angle?

That suffering through cold or being scared is seen as whey more manly then training like a dog for multiple years to climb 5 whatever?

Plus, chicks dig blood! And not on the tip, Palo!

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
JCM wrote: I particularly like your description of the appeal of the "crowded" (read: fun and social) sport crag.
I dunno, I kind of don't like having more than 4 people (including myself) when I'm being "cereal" at a sport crag. Now bouldering, that's where "more the merrier" is at, especially if everyone actually brought pads.
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
reboot wrote: I dunno, I kind of don't like having more than 4 people (including myself) when I'm being "cereal" at a sport crag. Now bouldering, that's where "more the merrier" is at, especially if everyone actually brought pads.
I get what you're saying here, and definately agree some of the time. There is a fine line between a good friendly scene and an overwhelming number of people.
Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491

That line in my experience is somewhere around the point where I have to wait in line longer than I want to rest. But of course I'm just gumming up the works for the guy after me...

Phil Esra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 100

I believe the internets were specifically invented by Al Gore for trolling. If a person can troll a boulderer *and* a random e-bystander, I believe he/she scores extra points. (In truth, trolls are always a "he").

doug rouse · · Denver, CO. · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 660

Ask yourself. would I still participate in this activity even if no one knew?

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Ego, it's all ego. When you lose your ego, life becomes so much easier and pleasant.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
Nick Stayner wrote:(cue analogy about jerking off in a whorehouse)
or punching the clown in the parking lot of the mustang ranch...
Paula Cooper · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 20
JCM wrote: There is a certain arrogance to the assumption of "You probably only like that type of climbing because you haven't yet been properly introduced to my style of climbing." It is, however, a fairly common attitude, especially from the trad/alpine crowd when addressing those who prefer sport climbing or bouldering.
This attitude is what has turned me off to trad climbing more than anything else. Maybe I haven't met enough trad (only) climbers, but sport climbers and boulderers are way more relaxed and fun to hang out with. I'm not getting paid to do this so I'd prefer to enjoy myself when I climb.
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
slim wrote:punching the clown in the parking lot of the mustang ranch...
i do believe this would make an excellent route name.
this made my day.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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