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Ideal Trad Rack MN

Mark Lutterman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 36

I'd 2nd Ryan Watts from Jan. You have plenty for Mn and Wi. Have fun!

Long webbing is handy for top ropes.

I love nylon shoulder length slings. They last longer and test better than new hightech dyneema etc in their stretch in a shock load. They can be tripled and easily extended for quick draw or full length.

I love my Hexes and small Tricams. Tricams are the only light passive pro I would use in softer rock. Both are lighter and cheaper than slcds. Not factors for MN or WI, but nice when you get to longer stuff elsewhere.

NickMartel · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 1,332

Once you add some trad/alpine draws, go with thin sewn dyneema slings and full size or 2/3-3/4 size ultralight biners right from the get go, that is a pretty nice "light to medium" rack. To upgrade to nice big full rack status I would add:

1 set Metolius cams 00-6 (or all the way to 8) either U-stem Ultralight Powercams or single stem Mastercams. I prefer U stems. They will complement your C4's well.
(Alternatively a second set of BD cams C3's/C4'scams/X4s if you want to keep it all 1 brand). Now you should have 2 full sets of , at least one of which goes down all the way to 00.

1 BD C4 #4, #5, and #6

1 set DMM IMPS micro brass nuts
1 set DMM Offset Brass Nuts
(both racked together on 1 ultralight full size biner)
Alternatively you can use the BD Micros and Offsets, I prefer the brass to steel most of the time but have have both.

1 set CAMP/Lowe Ball Nutz.

Eventually you can get a 3ed set of cams of some special type depending on your local rock, objectives, aid climbing or if you just want to become a gear head examples are: Totems, Aliens, Link Cams, Offset Cams, Metolius Fat Cams, Valley Giants, Splitter 2-Cams, Zero's
Then you can get wide stuff like Big Bros.

Also I feel like if you want to carry hexes the DMM Torque Nuts are the best of the hexes. Maybe consider a switch/trade over.

Sean Patrick · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 6,198

Haha! awesome. All that stuff would allow you to climb every one of the trad routes in MN and WI, leaving behind your gear as you went!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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