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Requiem for a Dreamer
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 10
votes
Routes in Marshfield Ledge
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"Chris's Corner" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Aladdin's Ladder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Banches With Wolves S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bidin' Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Streak S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bless The Rains S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boneless Chicken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bum Cakes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Captain Planet T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chicken Wing Slab S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Curving Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deadline, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dragon Fly Theater S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Empty Clip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Falcons Fury T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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French Berries T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Groton High Grade S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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High Grade Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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High Grade The Hard Way S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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I Feel Pretty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Just for Goobs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ledge Connector S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lycanthropy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Marshfield Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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My Lucky Bun Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pistol Whipped S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Proud and Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Requiem for a Dreamer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Solipsism T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Storm King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunny Sick Day S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Swarm, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiers of Joy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ultra-Violet Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vicious Cycle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Vuonilla S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Wasp flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Wee Bitty Arachnid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | John Sykes and Mike Lee |
| Page Views: | 2,533 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Kuchyt on Aug 24, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore |
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Description
This route provides a "well-protected" intro to the style of climbing at Marshfield. I use quotes around well-protected because the hardest parts of this route are well protected, however there are sections with significant space between protection, albeit on easier terrain. A fledgling 5.8 leader would probably not be happy on this route.
Climb shallow dirty cracks in a shallow left facing corner to a couple bolts. Climb a left-facing flake to a bolt and then follow bolts up the slab to a sloping ledge and a point where you might ask yourself "Where is the next bolt?". Climb up and slightly left through some lichen covered overlaps with juggy features and you'll pass a couple more bolts until you come to a steep slab with two bolts. Climb this (crux) and then step left into a left-facing flake system that leads to a small ledge and a fixed anchor.
Climb shallow dirty cracks in a shallow left facing corner to a couple bolts. Climb a left-facing flake to a bolt and then follow bolts up the slab to a sloping ledge and a point where you might ask yourself "Where is the next bolt?". Climb up and slightly left through some lichen covered overlaps with juggy features and you'll pass a couple more bolts until you come to a steep slab with two bolts. Climb this (crux) and then step left into a left-facing flake system that leads to a small ledge and a fixed anchor.
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