All Locations > Wyoming > Devils Tower

West Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in West Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Alien Fry Basket T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Approaching Lavender T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bloodguard T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
	Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Captain Ingram's Partisan Rangers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Captain Video T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
	Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Good Holds for Godzilla T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
	Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
	Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Out of Sync T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+
	Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Pee Pee's Plunge T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ponzo's Botatoes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Potatoes Alien T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Zen & the Art of Route Development T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	4,451 ft
GPS:	44.59062, -104.71615 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Brian Milhaupt on Jul 19, 2002 · Updates
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE

The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

Description

These are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent.

Getting There

Leave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area.

51 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 130 ● Tulgey Wood Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 136 ● McCarthy West Face (Variant) Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 166 ● One Way Sunset Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 302 ● El Matador Trad 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 28 ● Spank The Monkey Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 67 ● Carol's Crack Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 96 ● Mr. Clean Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 26 ● California Dreaming Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 41 ● McCarthy West Face/Hong Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 11 ● Avalon Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 29 ● Bloodguard Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 20 ● A Bridge Too Far Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 19 ● Digital Extraction Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 9 ● Brokedown Palace Trad 4 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 18 ● Billie Bear Cranks the Rad Trad