Mountain Project Logo

Rec's for women's alpine harness

Original Post
Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,875

I thought I would never buy anything except Misty Mountain ever again, but I decided to consider alternatives to reduce weight. Since it is so difficult to try on a wide range of women's harnesses due to lack of options in most stores, I would like feedback or rec's on potential buys. I have already done some online shopping and have some ideas but figured it didn't hurt to ask the community for help as well.

I want something in particular that is lightweight but which is not a sport climbing harness. Here are some details of what I am looking for:

  • I would like this harness to excel for alpine endeavors but suffice for general cragging as well
  • <= 12 oz
  • Accepts ice clips? even better
  • women-specific (please, no men's harnesses! I am not shaped that way)
  • haul loop
  • prefer a single rear clip-in buckle point for both leg loops vs a hook or two individual hooks
  • decent gear loops (I know, that is subjective, but I would like a design that recognizes women DO rack and place gear)
  • some padding in the leg loops

One of my bigger questions is to try non-adjustable leg loops? I know this will save weight but I do prefer the adjustable ones. However, I'm willing to give it a shot since most alpine harnesses are built this way. My main concern is making sure I could use this harness for ice climbing and not find the leg loops too tight over my extra layers. If I normally wear a small should I get a medium? Or just measure my legs and compare against the harness' specs?

Hope some ladies can chime in. :-) Thanks in advance.
Bri Val · · Colorado · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

My wife uses a Selena for crag and alpine. She loves it. The Selena is has fixed legs but Petzl makes the Luna which is the same but with adjustable legs.

The Selena hits your weight requirement and the Luna is one ounce over. I don't know what the haul loop is rated for but it is not full strength. I think the 12oz weight requirement will limit some of the features you are looking for.

Wyatt H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 6

CAMP Supernova almost fits your description.

Burk Wayne · · Charleston, WV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 5

I recommend this one: gearexpress.com/beal-venus-…

Malieka · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 5

Not CAMP Supernova. That is my most receent harness, which I like, and is great for sport or trad cragging, but isn't as sturdy or comfortable with more weight. Will be interested to see what you decide.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

I have a petzl Adjama. Its designed to be an alpine harness. The womens version is the Petzl luna. From what I read, it meets all your requirements, minus the non-adjustable leg loops. I use it for all of my climbing, and I think it performs well in all environments. I would check out some more reviews, but I am sure the women's harness isn't too different.

Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,875

Thanks for all the inputs; I've been checking them all out.

In particular, thanks for the feedback on real world use, Malieka!!

JoanneF · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

I just went through the ordeal of finding a new harness and went with the BD Lotus harness.
The Lotus does have 4 ice clipper slots and a real haul loop.

I do a lot of multipitch trad so I wanted a harness that would be comfortable all day and had adequately sized gear loops (I rack on my harness). The padding is thin and I was skeptical about how comfortable it would be, especially with hanging belays, etc, but it's just as comfortable as my old BD harness that was well padded. Another nice touch is the cord in the back. I keep my wind jacket, rappel gloves, and other gear that I don't need to access frequently -- helps free up space on the gear loops.

Seems like all the BD harnesses have the 2 rear hooks vs single clip-in point. Mammut harnesses have the single clip-in point. Backcountry.com says the Mammut Ophira 3 Slide is for rock and ice, but I don't see where/how it accepts ice clips (maybe they think women don't lead on ice ;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Rec's for women's alpine harness"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.