Requiem for a Dreamer
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
FA: | John Sykes and Mike Lee |
Page Views: | 2,538 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Greg Kuchyt on Aug 24, 2013 |
Admins: | Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore |
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Description
This route provides a "well-protected" intro to the style of climbing at Marshfield. I use quotes around well-protected because the hardest parts of this route are well protected, however there are sections with significant space between protection, albeit on easier terrain. A fledgling 5.8 leader would probably not be happy on this route.
Climb shallow dirty cracks in a shallow left facing corner to a couple bolts. Climb a left-facing flake to a bolt and then follow bolts up the slab to a sloping ledge and a point where you might ask yourself "Where is the next bolt?". Climb up and slightly left through some lichen covered overlaps with juggy features and you'll pass a couple more bolts until you come to a steep slab with two bolts. Climb this (crux) and then step left into a left-facing flake system that leads to a small ledge and a fixed anchor.
Climb shallow dirty cracks in a shallow left facing corner to a couple bolts. Climb a left-facing flake to a bolt and then follow bolts up the slab to a sloping ledge and a point where you might ask yourself "Where is the next bolt?". Climb up and slightly left through some lichen covered overlaps with juggy features and you'll pass a couple more bolts until you come to a steep slab with two bolts. Climb this (crux) and then step left into a left-facing flake system that leads to a small ledge and a fixed anchor.
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